“Ever heard of a temple that moves?” I ask. Today we find ourselves before Jōshōin. It is a Zen Buddhist temple with a story as winding as the mountain paths that surround it.
Jōshōin has a history of over 400 years. It is a Soto Zen Buddhist temple. Jōshōin stands with its back against Mount Togeo. This mountain fosters a deep connection to nature. It is known as a ‘里山の寺’ or “temple in the village mountains.”
Once, the area around Jōshōin was rich in swamps and ponds. Water flowed abundantly. A spring within the temple grounds never dried up. People revered the temple as a place for praying for rain.
Originally, the main deity was Jizo Bosatsu. Later, it changed to Shaka Nyorai. Jōshōin also enshrines deities of esoteric Buddhism. Sanpo Daikojin, Benzaiten, and Yakushi Nyorai are examples. Myoken Bosatsu and Juichimen Kannon Bosatsu are also honored here.
Jōshōin is both a Zen temple and a place of folk beliefs. These beliefs blend esoteric Buddhism and mountain worship. You can still feel the echoes of these traditions today.
The temple offers two types of Goshuin stamps. One is specifically for temples with the “Eastern Flowers.” Jōshōin also sells original Goshuin stamp books.
The temple was founded by Daio Oshō. He was the third abbot of Shōraku-ji Temple in Aikawa. That was over four centuries ago during the late 1500s.
The temple’s location has shifted over time. Initially, it was located in “Hasuge Shimo-Taira.” This is now part of Aikawa Town. Later, Jōshōin moved to its current location. This is in present-day Atsugi City.
In the past, the temple grounds included mountain shrines. The Sanno-sha Shrine stood on the mountain peak. Shirayama-sha Shrine was on the peak of the rear gate. Kannon-do Hall faced the front gate.
Until the Meiji era, Jōshōin featured thatched buildings. There was a main hall, a study, and a Zazen hall. A fire in 1958 destroyed everything. Only a small, three-inch tall statue of Shussebutsu remained. The temple was rebuilt. However, the hall and Buddhist statues are not original. Land excavation in the 1960s further altered the landscape.
Jōshōin has undergone many changes. Yet, it remains a place of spiritual significance. The head priest welcomes visitors from 9 am to 5 pm.
As you wander the grounds, consider those who came before. What did they seek in this mountain temple? What do you seek today? The story of Jōshōin is a reminder of time. It is also a reminder of the enduring human need for connection. This connection can be found with nature and the divine.