山王山日枝神社

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Oyamakui no Kami, the god of Mount Hie, watches over Hie Shrine. This Shinto shrine, nestled in the heart of Tokyo, has a rich history intertwined with the city’s fate. Hie Shrine, also known as Hiyoshi Sannō-sha, or even Sannō-sama by locals, has been a spiritual anchor for centuries. It’s hard to imagine that this tranquil oasis sits near the bustling political center of Nagatachō.

The origins of Hie Shrine are shrouded in a bit of mystery. Some say it was founded as far back as 1478 by the warlord Ōta Dōkan. Others believe it might be even older, linked to a shrine mentioned in records from 1362. What is certain is its connection to the powerful Tokugawa shogunate. Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun, brought Hie Shrine within Edo Castle walls. Later, his son, Hidetada, moved it outside so the people of Edo could freely worship Oyamakui no Kami. This move cemented Hie Shrine’s place in the hearts of Tokyo’s residents.

Tragedy struck in 1657 with the Great Fire of Meireki. Hie Shrine, along with much of the city, was reduced to ashes. But like a phoenix, it rose again in 1659, rebuilt by shogun Ietsuna Tokugawa in its current location. This resilience reflects the spirit of Tokyo itself. Even World War II bombings couldn’t extinguish Hie Shrine’s flame. Though its buildings were destroyed, it was reconstructed in 1958, standing as a testament to enduring faith.

Today, Hie Shrine continues to thrive. It’s a popular destination during Shichi-Go-San, a cherished coming-of-age festival for children. The shrine is also home to a National Treasure – a magnificent tachi, a single-edged sword. Thirteen other swords and a naginata are designated as Important Cultural Assets. As you explore the grounds, be sure to look for the pair of monkey statues, husband and wife, guardians of the shrine. The mother monkey, cradling a baby, is said to grant blessings for marriage and childbirth. The father monkey offers good fortune for business and prosperity.

Hie Shrine isn’t just a historical relic. It’s a vibrant part of Tokyo’s spiritual tapestry. Every June, the Sanno Matsuri, one of Japan’s three great festivals, fills the shrine with life. A grand procession winds through the city, a spectacular display of traditional costumes and vibrant energy. As you stand before Hie Shrine, take a moment to appreciate its enduring presence. It’s a place where history whispers, faith endures, and the spirit of Tokyo comes alive.

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