四之橋

Gazing at Shinobashi Bridge, can you envision the bustling Edo-era scene it once held? Shinobashi Bridge, depicted in ukiyo-e woodblock prints, was a popular Edo-era landmark. The name Shinobashi, meaning “four bridges”, dates back to 1699. It was given because it was the fourth bridge from Ichinohashi. The bridge’s location, near Edo’s center, made it an ideal picnic spot. Imagine Edo citizens enjoying spring’s budding grasses, summer’s fireflies, and autumn’s insect songs. Tea houses and restaurants thrived south of Shinobashi Bridge, catering to the influx of visitors. Nearby, a vast grassy expanse known as Hiroko-no-hara stretched from the Furukawa River towards Shirokanedai and Arisugawa. This idyllic spot was a welcome respite from the densely packed city center. Before Edo became a global metropolis, few residents ventured beyond their own neighborhoods. Everything they needed was within walking distance. However, later in the Edo period, travel became more common, sparked by ukiyo-e artists capturing scenes of “other places.” These prints, including depictions of Shinobashi Bridge, became early tourist guides, promoting the bridge as a must-see location. Interestingly, artist Utagawa Hiroshige depicted Shinobashi from an elevated perspective, although no tall buildings existed near the bridge during that time. Hiroshige’s artistic license and unique viewpoints contributed to ukiyo-e’s international acclaim. Another fascinating detail is the now-vanished Kogai River that once flowed near Shinobashi. Today, its name persists in the Hiroko Bridge intersection, a reminder of the river’s course. This river, originating near the Aoyama Cemetery, merged with the Shibuya River beneath Temma Bridge. As part of post-earthquake recovery efforts, the Kogai River was covered over, paving the way for roads and buildings. Yet, it continues to flow underground, passing beneath Hiroo Station before reaching Temma Bridge. There, instead of merging with the Shibuya River, it resurfaces briefly before disappearing again. In 1630, a medicinal herb garden was established west of the embankment north of Shinobashi. This led to the embankment being called Yakuen-zutsumi, or “medicinal herb garden embankment.” The garden was later moved to Koishikawa to accommodate a new residence for Tsunayoshi, the fifth Tokugawa shogun. It evolved into the present-day Koishikawa Botanical Garden. Yet, even 300 years later, the name Yakuen-zutsumi endures. Today, Shinobashi Bridge exists beneath the Metropolitan Expressway, a far cry from its Edo-era depiction. Yet, the area north of the bridge, once home to the herb garden, remains largely unchanged. It’s now a quiet residential area. The bustling commercial street south of the bridge still exists, offering a glimpse into the past.