Here stands Tōsen-ji a beacon of history amidst Tokyo. This Buddhist temple holds stories of diplomacy and resilience.
Tōsen-ji belongs to the Myōshin-ji branch of the Rinzai school of Japanese Zen. It is one of Edo’s four great Zen temples. Tōsen-ji is best known as the first British legation in Japan. It was also the site of incidents against foreigners. Pro-sonnō jōi samurai caused these incidents during the Bakumatsu period. The temple’s grounds earned recognition as a National Historic Site in 2010.
Ryōnan Zenji established Tōsen-ji in 1610 in Akasaka. The name comes from Itō Sukenori’s Dharma name. He was the daimyō of Obi Domain. In 1636, it moved to its current location. At that time, the temple was directly on Edo Bay. It gained the nickname Kaijō Zenrin. This means “the Zen forest above the sea.” During the Edo Period, it served as the bodaiji for several daimyō clans.
One notable event at Tōsen-ji is the First Tōsenji Incident. The 1858 Anglo-Japanese Treaty allowed a British representative to live in Edo. Rutherford Alcock became Consul-General. He chose Tōsen-ji for the British legation. The Tokugawa Shogunate often used temples for foreign dignitaries. Alcock considered Tōsen-ji suitable. Japanese authorities preferred Yokohama. They worried about Tōsen-ji’s location on the Tōkaidō highway. This was a busy route and exposed to attacks. Alcock persisted. The British legation opened in 1859.
In January 1860, trouble began. Kobayashi Denkichi, Alcock’s interpreter, was murdered at the legation gate. In May, Alcock returned from Nagasaki. He insisted on traveling overland. This upheld treaty provisions about diplomatic movement. This angered the sonnō jōi party. Extremist rōnin from Mito Domain gathered. Led by Ariga Hanya, they attacked on July 5, 1861.
Inside the legation, staff watched a comet. Alcock was asleep. Sentries from Nishio Domain and Yamato-Kōriyama Domain guarded the legation. Security was relaxed. The Mito rōnin stormed in. The Japanese sentries fought back. They killed three attackers including Ariga. They captured three others. Two defenders died and ten were wounded. Among the wounded were George Morrison and Laurence Oliphant. Alcock fired his revolver before the fighting ended.
Captured rōnin faced consequences. One was beheaded and two committed seppuku. Some escapees were later found. Some committed seppuku to avoid capture. Others died in separate incidents. Only two survived until the Meiji restoration. Alcock had criticized the Japanese guards. He accused them of spying. He then realized the depth of anti-foreign sentiment.
Alcock demanded concessions. He threatened to use the attack as a casus belli. He wanted a British garrison at the legation. He also demanded more Japanese guards. Compensation of $10,000 was required. The shogunate conceded. Alcock later wrote that the Japanese guards did not fight. He claimed his and others’ heroism drove off the attackers. He did not mention the Japanese defenders’ sacrifices. Sword cuts and bullet marks remain on the main hall’s pillars. Rutherford Alcock wrote about Tōsen-ji in his book. It was titled “The Capital of the Tycoon” published in 1863.
After the incident, Alcock moved the legation to Yokohama. He distrusted the Japanese. He was unhappy with the compensation. In May 1862, Edward St. John Neale returned the legation to Tōsen-ji. A new compound was being built nearby. The staff included Royal Marines. Around 30 men were present. The Shogunate assigned 500 men for security. Itō Gunbei, a guard from Matsumoto, worried about the expense. He also feared killing fellow Japanese. He decided to assassinate Neale.
On June 27, 1862, Itō Gunbei tried to enter Neale’s bedroom. Royal Marines discovered him. He killed two men from HMS Renard before being subdued. He committed seppuku. The British withdrew to Yamate in Yokohama. This led to a permanent British Military Garrison in Japan. It marked the end of Tōsen-ji as the British legation.
Today, Tōsen-ji stands as a testament to a turbulent era. It reminds us of diplomacy. It also stands for sacrifice and cultural exchange. As you stand here remember its pivotal role in shaping Japan’s relationship with the world.