信行寺

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“Lost temples,” whispered the old monk, his voice raspy with age, “hold secrets yet to be unearthed.” Shinshoji, an 800-year-old temple nestled in Hino, Tokyo, is one such temple, a hidden gem whispering tales of resilience and rebirth. Shinshoji belongs to the Shingon school of Buddhism, a sect known for its esoteric practices and connection to the famed temple city on Mount Koya. My first encounter with Shinshoji was during the challenging days of the pandemic. Seeking solace and open spaces, I stumbled upon this tranquil oasis. I was immediately captivated by the serenity of the garden, the birdsong filling the air, and the vibrant hues of the maple trees. Unlike many temples that keep their main halls closed, Shinshoji welcomed visitors with open doors, revealing a softly lit altar. Two lanterns flanked the altar, their warm glow an invitation to step inside. I learned that Shinshoji participates in the annual Seven Gods of Fortune pilgrimage, housing a shrine dedicated to Ebisu, the god of abundance and good luck. Intrigued, I vowed to return. Months later, during Higan, the autumnal equinox, I revisited Shinshoji. The temple grounds buzzed with activity as families tended to their ancestral graves. This time, I met the bomori, the wife of the head priest. She shared stories of Shinshoji’s rich history, including a tale of a crepe myrtle tree that miraculously regrew after a devastating fire 90 years ago. The tree became a symbol of the temple’s enduring spirit, mirroring its own cycle of rebirth. The bomori then granted me access to the Ebisu shrine. Inside, a vibrant wooden statue of Ebisu, crafted by a renowned Kyoto woodcarver, held a large fish, a symbol of his connection to fishermen. The shrine, made of fragrant hinoki cypress, released a captivating aroma upon opening. A small gecko darted under the altar, seeking refuge. The bomori, unfazed, explained that geckos are considered house protectors, symbols of good luck. Shinshoji also houses a Kannon-do, a chapel dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Every October, the temple hosts a festival in her honor. As the New Year approaches, the serene grounds of Shinshoji will once again come alive with the Seven Gods of Fortune pilgrimage. I plan to be there amidst the festivities, and I invite you to join me in spirit, as we uncover the secrets held within the ancient walls of Shinshoji.

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