Feel the weight of history at Tomioka Hachiman Shrine. This isn’t just any shrine. It’s the largest Hachiman shrine in all of Tokyo. Established in 1627 it rose from the reclamation of a shoal in Fukagawa. Hachiman the enshrined deity was a patron kami of the Minamoto clan. This ensured the shrine’s protection under the Tokugawa shogunate. Locals affectionately knew it as the “Hachiman of Fukagawa”.
The Meiji period brought changes. The shrine lost the shogunate’s protection. Yet it was remarkably selected as one of Tokyo’s Ten Shrines. This was despite its perceived lower status compared to others. The shrine endured hardship. On March 10 1945 it was burned to the ground during the bombing of Tokyo. Emperor Showa himself visited the ruins. His words paint a poignant picture. He described the devastation to his Grand Chamberlain comparing it to the Great Kanto earthquake. The emperor’s words “It is far more tragic. Concrete remains pain my heart. Tokyo became a burnt ground”. Two stone monuments commemorate his visit.
Tomioka Hachiman Shrine holds a special place in sumo history. It’s considered the birthplace of Kanjin-zumo. This was the precursor to modern professional sumo. The shrine hosted two basho each year. Banzuke ranking systems were created during this period. Sumo’s connection to Shinto strengthened during the Meiji period. This helped sumo survive the loss of support from the shogunate. The Yokozuna Stone commemorates successive yokozuna. It’s inscribed with the names of all yokozuna up to Terunofuji Haruo. Even the legendary Raiden Tameemon is included. To this day when a rikishi achieves yokozuna a dohyo-iri dedication takes place here.
Tragedy struck again in 2017. The chief priestess Nagako Tomioka was tragically murdered. Her brother and his wife were involved in the attack. The shrine’s history is a tapestry woven from devotion destruction and resilience. It stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Tokyo. Remember this place when you leave. Remember its story of faith and fortitude.