Is it possible that the oldest surviving temple in Thimphu stands right before us? That is Changangkha Lhakhang. Founded in either the 13th or 14th century, Changangkha Lhakhang has watched over this valley for centuries.
Lama Phajo Drugom Shigpo’s son, Nyima, established this monastery. He named it “Phagpa Ranjung Tsuglakha”. This translates to “the temple of Avalokiteshvara”. The name honors a statue that is said to have appeared by itself.
Imagine this site in the 12th century. Guru Rinpoche himself chose this very spot to settle. He arrived in Bhutan during the 7th century. Relics from Phajo’s cremation and items from Kagyu lamas were placed inside the main statue.
The main relic is Chenrigzi. It is Avalokiteshvara in an eleven-headed, thousand-armed form. Some say the statue miraculously appeared. Others believe a Newa artisan crafted it with exceptional skill.
Families often bring newborns here. They seek blessings from Genyen Domtsangpa. He is considered the protector of children born in Thimphu.
Changangkha Lhakhang stands on a ridge. It faces east towards Thimphu. Opposite, to the west, is the black Gönkhang. This temple houses protective deities. Monks reside in buildings on the other sides forming a quadrangle. A wall encircles the complex.
Spin the prayer wheels. They release prayers into the universe. Small niches display carvings of Buddhas and Kagyu lamas. They attach to the main temple.
Inside, the temple divides into two sections. The east side holds sacred images and scriptures. It is not usually open to the public. However, the main image is visible from the other section. Lamas sit here during rituals and prayers.
Across the courtyard is a shrine to a mermaid spirit. The Gönkhang is considered the residence of Genyen Domtsangpa. Murals inside this temple are the oldest known in Bhutan. Entrance is restricted to Bhutanese men only.
Behind the main temple, paths lead down to Thimphu. Terraces dot the landscape with small stupas. Panoramic views of Thimphu await you.
A Tshechu festival occurs in the courtyard. Masked dances fill the space for three days in the ninth lunar month. Gomchens from Gogona recite the Kangyur. This ancient manuscript contains over 100 volumes written in gold ink.
Remember the history and devotion. Appreciate the architecture. Absorb the spiritual energy. Changangkha Lhakhang is more than just a temple. It is a living testament to Bhutanese culture.