Across the Hradčany Square, the Martinický Palace stands as a silent witness to centuries of Prague’s history. This magnificent late-Renaissance palace, Martinický Palace, didn’t rise overnight. Its story unfolds in two main chapters, spanning from 1550 to 1630. Originally, the site housed four Gothic buildings dating back to the 14th century. One belonged to Benesch of Weitmile, chronicler and supervisor of St. Vitus Cathedral’s construction under Charles IV. Another housed Ofka, Queen Elizabeth’s lady-in-waiting, whose ghost, accompanied by a fiery dog, is said to roam the palace after midnight. A devastating fire in 1541 ravaged Hradčany and Malá Strana, reducing these Gothic structures to ashes. Years later, Andrew Teyffle of Zeilberg purchased the land, initiating a Renaissance-style reconstruction. He then sold the estate in 1583 to George Bořita of Martinice, a provincial judge and later, chief chancellor. George continued the rebuilding process. The Martinice family held the palace until 1788, when their lineage ended. Jaroslav Bořita of Martinice, George’s nephew, began another significant reconstruction in 1618, shaping Martinický Palace into its current form. However, Jaroslav’s involvement in the 1618 defenestration halted the project, which was finally completed in the 1730s. This later phase added another floor, a north wing with a large hall, and those beautifully painted beam ceilings you can now admire. The façade proudly displays the Martinice coat of arms—a star and waterlily stalks—carved into a red marble plate. Look closely at the exterior sgraffiti. These three scenes depict the story of Joseph of Egypt and date back to the late 16th century. The courtyard features elaborate sgraffiti showcasing the deeds of Samson and Hercules. Inside, the main hall on the first floor of the south wing boasts an original fireplace and the remnants of a cassette ceiling. Adjacent to this lies a well-preserved chapel, adorned with paintings of Adam and Eve inspired by Dürer. The chapel’s arched ceiling is divided into four sections, each telling a story: the Holy Trinity with Virgin Mary, the Last Anointing, the Last Judgment, and St. George battling the dragon. Martinický Palace’s beauty isn’t limited to its sgraffiti. The numerous preserved beam ceilings, dating from the 1720s and 1730s, offer a glimpse into the artistry of that era. A major restoration took place between 1967 and 1973, led by architect Zdeněk Hölzel. This project conserved the Renaissance and early Baroque elements, including the arches, painted ceilings, frescoes, and sgraffiti. The former stable once housed glass sculptures by René Roubíček, now displayed at the Museum of Decorative Arts. It was also here in 1993 that Frank Gehry unveiled his model for the iconic Dancing House.
Dolní Břežany
Could this grand Renaissance castle have once been a humble medieval fortress? It’s true! This is Dolní Břežany, dominated by