A hush fell over the crowd as we approached St. Johannes Nepomuk. This unassuming chapel holds a story as turbulent as the Vltava River that claimed its patron saint’s life. St. Johannes Nepomuk, a name synonymous with courage and faith, stands as a testament to the enduring power of conviction. Born in 1350 in Pomuk, near Pilsen, his journey led him to become a notary, a priest, and eventually, a doctor of canon law. By 1389, he was appointed Vicar General to the Archbishop of Prague. This position placed him directly in the crosshairs of a power struggle between King Wenceslas IV and the Archbishop. The king’s ambition to diminish the Archbishop’s authority by establishing a new bishopric clashed with the church’s autonomy. When the Archbishop preempted the King’s appointment of a new bishop for the bishopric of Kladrau, a furious Wenceslas retaliated. The Archbishop fled, leaving Johannes Nepomuk as the highest-ranking cleric. He was arrested, tortured, and then thrown from Charles Bridge into the Vltava River. This act, committed in 1393, solidified John’s status as a martyr. He defended the church’s independence against the king’s overreach. His steadfastness, even in the face of death, echoes in the very stones of this chapel dedicated to him. Today, St. Johannes Nepomuk is revered as the patron saint of bridges and a protector against drowning. His story is a somber melody played out against the backdrop of political intrigue, reminding us of the enduring power of faith and the sacrifices made in its name.
Skulpturenpark Stammheim
A golden winged pug surveys the Rhine. That’s how many remember the Skulpturenpark Stammheim. This isn’t just any park. It’s