Seventy-five years ago, horror unfolded near Sai Wan. The Salesian Missionary House became a temporary medical station. British authorities used it during a conflict. Japanese soldiers landed nearby. They reached the Missionary House. The soldiers murdered most unarmed medical staff there.
Today we are visiting Sai Wan. It is more than just a location. It is a place of historical significance. We will explore Sai Wan Hill Battery. It’s also known as Sai Wan Fort. We’ll follow the road. Or, we can take the steps. A local led the way. Mr Chan knew the hidden paths and tunnels.
Mr Chan remembered the British Army’s presence here. He recalled a sentry guarding the entrance. The camouflage paint on the buildings whispered stories of the past. We found the barred entrance to a Japanese tunnel. The tunnel led into the hillside.
During the war, the Japanese seemed invincible. But after key battles, they were on the defensive. They started digging tunnels in Hong Kong. It was preparation for a potential attack. Many tunnels remain visible today near Sai Wan.
At the top, we see stone and brick buildings. These are older than the concrete structures below. Arched ceilings and passageways hint at hidden magazines. They once held ammunition for the guns above at Sai Wan.
Hollywood even came to Sai Wan. Part of a 1965 film was shot here. “Les Tribulations d’un Chinois en Chine” used this site. The film shows how it looked before trees grew around it.
The Sai Wan Hill Battery was completed in 1903. It initially housed two six-inch guns. By the 1920s, it was equipped with anti-aircraft guns. It was always used as an anti-aircraft battery. The battery was active in December 1941. Japanese troops eventually overran it. After the war, the site was rebuilt. It housed four newer anti-aircraft guns. This is the layout we see today.
Up here at Sai Wan Redoubt, history layers upon itself. The oldest part is a stone pillar. It dates back to 1843 or 1844. It marked a corner of military land. It also served as a trig point for early mapmakers. It stood here for over 170 years. Its continued existence was rediscovered recently.
Nearby, there is a small square structure. It was a caponier. Soldiers fired at attackers through loopholes in the walls. The northern half of the redoubt is now a reservoir. Pipes are visible. But the area is dry.
Walking along the west wall, we see the outside of the caponier. Only two loopholes are visible from the outside. Inside, there are three openings. The front wall has larger openings. These may date to the Japanese occupation.
At the southwest corner, a path leads down. It brings us to a modern trig point. Further down is a second Japanese tunnel. Earth has slipped into the entrance. It looks wider than other tunnels. Further down the slope, there is a concrete structure. It would have protected people. Perhaps a gun was positioned in the tunnel. It could be pulled forward to fire through the opening.
Sai Wan offers a glimpse into Hong Kong’s layered past. From wartime atrocities to Hollywood scenes, its story is etched into the landscape. It is a place where echoes of the past resonate with the present.