Beyond this unassuming entrance lies a sanctuary. Let me tell you about Takarayu Spa. Takarayu is not just a bathhouse. It is a portal to old-school Japan. This venerable establishment was built in 1927. It offers a quintessential sento experience. Some fans travel a long way to visit Takarayu.
Notice the distinctive curves. Carpenters of that era designed bathhouses to resemble shrines or temples. Look up at the roof. There is a chimney. It once released smoke from burning firewood. That smoke heated the water.
Owner Matsumoto Koichi shares a memory. His grandfather dug a well. He started the bathhouse when the area was just fields. Takarayu was fortunate. It survived air raids during the war. During those raids, the electric lights went out. Customers bathed by candlelight. This shows how integral the bathhouse was to daily life.
Today, Takarayu’s customers are mainly older locals. They prefer it to bathing at home. For elderly people living alone, it is cost-effective. Consider the expense of water, gas, and cleaning. Communal bathing is also safer. Others can help if someone has heart problems. Foreign tourists from a nearby guesthouse also visit Takarayu.
Step into the large garden. Appreciate its Japanese aesthetics. Matsumoto’s grandfather had a grounding in gardening. He constructed it. It is still maintained today. Many older bathhouses had gardens. But most converted them into coin laundries.
Takarayu once featured a bandai platform. Attendants could observe both bathing areas. They watched over customers’ items. They prevented rule-breaking. However, customers felt uncomfortable with this. Takarayu converted its platform to a modern reception desk in 1988.
Admire the paintings in the bathroom. Painter Maruyama Kiyoto collaborated with sento researcher Machida Shinobu. The paintings are two-sided. They can be turned over to show pictures by Nakajima Morio.
A day at Takarayu begins and ends with cleaning. Staff clean for hours each morning. Then, they add firewood to the stove. They heat the water. The bathhouse opens at 3 PM. It closes at 11:30 PM. Afterward, staff scrub up again. High-up windows release steam. They are left open during summer.
Takarayu heats its water mainly with firewood. Wood came by raft from lumberyards along the Sumida River. Now, it comes by truck. It is shavings, chips, and bark from local carpentry shops. These businesses are less common today. So, Takarayu sources wood from demolition firms. Sometimes, wood is unavailable. The stove can also use gas. This is more expensive. This worries Matsumoto.
Running Takarayu is harder than it looks. Matsumoto wants to keep Takarayu going. He wants to meet the needs of regulars and sento fans. This place is known among Japanese anime fans. It served as the setting for Kamen Rider. The veranda draws crowds.
The Japanese garden is accessible from the reception area. It is also accessed from the men’s changing room. On Wednesdays, women can enjoy the garden and veranda. Special events throughout the year open the veranda to women on other days.
Soak in the history. Breathe in the tradition. Relax in the warmth. Takarayu is more than a bathhouse. It is a community. It is a cultural experience. It is a step back in time.