“Upside down tree” sounds like something out of a fairy tale, doesn’t it? But here at Zenbukuji, it’s a very real, very old, and very special ginkgo tree. Zenbukuji, also known as Azabu-san, stands as one of Tokyo’s oldest temples. It is located in the Azabu district. Let’s uncover the captivating story of this Jodo Shinshu temple.
Zenbukuji’s history stretches back to 824. Kobo Daishi founded it during the Heian Period. He was also known as Kukai. Zenbukuji began as a Shingon temple. Centuries later, Shinran’s visit marked a turning point. He brought Zenbukuji into the Jodo Shinshu sect during the Kamakura period.
In 1859, Zenbukuji played a vital role in international relations. The United States established its first Tokyo legation here. Townsend Harris served as the first Consul-General. This marked a significant moment in the opening of Japan to the world. A monument on the temple grounds commemorates Townsend Harris and the First American Legation in Tokyo.
The temple’s 750-year-old ginkgo tree is a sight to behold. Legend says Shinran himself planted it. It is called the “upside down tree” and it is the largest ginkgo in Tokyo today. It is a designated National Natural Monument. Its massive branches reach skyward. They tell silent stories of centuries passed.
Beside the shrine approach, you will find a well. Legend says Kukai struck it with his bishop’s staff. This well served the community during the Great Kanto earthquake and the Great Tokyo Air Raid.
Zenbukuji has connections to important figures in Japanese history. Masuda Takashi, founder of Mitsui, worked here as an interpreter at 14. Henry Heusken, tragically attacked by ronin in 1861, was brought back to Zenbukuji. He died here. Fukuzawa Yukichi, the founder of Keio University, is interred here.
In May 1945, air raids during World War II destroyed Zenbukuji’s Garan. In 1961, the Main Hall of Higashi Honganji’s Yao Betsuin was offered to Zenbukuji. It was rebuilt as its Main Hall. It underwent major renovations in 2008. It was designated as a Tangible Cultural Property of Minato-ku the following year.
Even the name of the surrounding district, Azabu, derives from Zenbukuji. For over 1,200 years, Zenbukuji has watched over Tokyo’s transformation. From cherry blossoms in spring to the ginkgo tree’s lush green leaves, Zenbukuji offers a tranquil escape. It is a place where history, nature, and spirituality intertwine.