Imagine stepping back in time to the 11th century. Vineyards began dotting the Prague landscape. Today we stand near the remains of Viniční lis.
Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century wanted to boost wine production. He brought vines from Austria and Burgundy. These vines were planted around Prague and Karlštejn. To further support this, he decreed in 1358 that landowners near towns had to plant vineyards. They had to start within 14 days. If they didn’t, an official called a perkmistr could lease their land to someone who would. These new vineyard owners got a 12-year break from rent. They also received permanent exemptions from certain taxes and duties.
To protect local wines, Charles IV restricted wine imports in 1370. The ban initially covered the period from the grape harvest in autumn to after Easter. It later expanded to cover the entire year.
Ever wonder why Saint Wenceslaus is on the winegrowers seal? Prince Bořivoj and his wife Ludmila established the first vineyards near Mělník. Ludmila taught her grandson Wenceslaus how to grow vines. He learned the secrets of winemaking. Czech winegrowers hailed Saint Wenceslaus as “Supremus magister vinearum”. This means the highest vineyard master.
The perkmistr managed the vineyards. This official had considerable power. Land couldn’t be used for other purposes without vineyard office approval. Violators risked losing their vineyards. The perkmistr oversaw planting. He assisted with land deals. He resolved vineyard disputes. The perkmistr’s official seal featured Saint Wenceslaus. Documents issued to vineyard operators bore this seal.
The Hussite wars caused a temporary setback in the 15th century. Vineyards recovered quickly. The period from the mid-15th century to the start of the Thirty Years’ War became Prague’s golden age of winemaking. Prague produced 60,000 hectoliters of wine annually. Vineyards stretched across hillsides in various districts. Gardens and hop fields accompanied them. Fields were rare among the vineyards.
Vineyards thrived on slopes unsuitable for crops. This way they didn’t take up fertile land. They generated income from previously unusable hills. Hence the term “vineyard hills.”
In the 19th century, the Osborne family significantly impacted Bohnice winemaking. They bought two large farms. They built a new wine press called Lísek. The original was in Troja. However, the phylloxera pest devastated Prague vineyards in 1854. It destroyed the remaining vines. Lísek was demolished in 1866.
Wine’s popularity grew among nobles and townspeople. Extensive vineyards required many hired workers. Vineyard workers represented a considerable portion of Prague’s poor. They often lived in simple homes on the vineyards. Many were not Catholic.
The Thirty Years’ War was a major blow. It marked the beginning of the end for Prague vineyards. Impoverished citizens couldn’t maintain small, often devastated vineyards. Larger landowners lost interest. Post-White Mountain confiscations led to owner departures. Land remained uncultivated. Population decline resulted in labor shortages.
From the second half of the 17th century, vineyards transitioned. Ornamental plants and vegetables replaced vines. Fields replaced vineyards. Grain replaced wine. By the early 18th century, vineyards were a quarter of their pre-war size. The perkmistr’s office was abolished in 1783. Imperial civil servants took over its functions.
Between the world wars, only two Prague vineyards remained. They were in Troja and Vinohrady. Salabka was restored in 1955. Grébovka was regenerated in 1993. Máchalka vineyard was renewed in 1996. Today, Prague boasts 13 reborn vineyards.
Salabka started as a wine press in the early 17th century. Later, a residential building and farm buildings were added. In the 1950s, a new vineyard was established there. The buildings once again supported winemakers. Today, the renovated facility processes grapes. It also processes grapes for the Máchalka vineyard.
The Troja press was built by the 16th century. It stood between the Bouchalka and U Lisu vineyards. It was demolished in 1973 for security reasons. This was because President Husák lived nearby.