“Ever dream of finding a tranquil bay?” Sha Mo Wan awaits you. It is a hidden gem on Lantau Island. Sha Mo Wan offers more than just scenic beauty. It whispers tales of history.
Sha Mo Wan is situated on the northwest side of Lantau Island. It faces the Hong Kong International Airport. Imagine this bay during the Ming Dynasty. Sha Lo Wan was famous for its incense production.
Then came the Great Clearance. Sha Mo Wan was evacuated. Lantau Island was emptied. People returned in 1669 but Sha Lo Wan remained deserted for a while.
Sha Lo Wan Tsuen emerged in the 18th century. Villagers built the Ba Kong Temple in 1774. It guarded the bay and honored Hung Shing. Fishing and farming sustained the villagers. The population grew slowly. But pirates and bandits often attacked. In the late 1930s, pirates occupied Sha Lo Wan for a year.
Tungsten changed everything in Sha Lo Wan. Its discovery led to mining in the 1950s. The population boomed reaching 4000 in 1971. Since the 1970s, many people have left again.
Now, look around Sha Mo Wan. Notice the thick tree trunks. They highlight the preserved natural environment. The village of Sha Lo Wan Tsuen once had four rows of houses. A granite gate stood tall for 200 years. It guarded the village entrance. Three ancestral halls stood within the village.
Two temples stand near the coast. The Ba Kong Temple built in 1774 honors Hung Shing. Next to it is the Tin Hau Temple built in 1919. A wall connects them. People call them “Ba Kong Temple and Tin Hau Palace.”
Besides the playground, Tung Chung Sha Lo Wan Beach is the main attraction.
Today, access to Sha Mo Wan is limited. There is no road. Villagers depend on ferries and footpaths. The Tung O Ancient Trail passes through here. It links Tai O to Tung Chung. A road was proposed in 2014, but it is not built.
Sha Mo Wan has faced challenges. In 2013, villagers protested the shelved coastal road project. They closed the village indefinitely. They were unhappy with the government’s decision. In 2020, the village closed again. Iron gates blocked entry. Villagers cited attacks by tourists. They even accused outsiders of being thieves. The Lands Department removed the gates. But some villagers continued to block roads.
Despite these troubles, traditions continue in Sha Mo Wan. The Sha Lo Wan Village Office holds the annual Hung Shing Festival. Celebrations include Cantonese opera.
Consider the story of tungsten mining. In 1951, wolframite mining began. Miners dug tunnels. By 1952, 1500 miners worked the hillsides. Illicit mining polluted water supplies. The Mines Department caused delays. Miners lived in makeshift huts. One ex-detective became the main dealer. Villagers benefited by charging fees for mining sites.
Today, Sha Mo Wan may be quieter but its history remains. As you leave Sha Mo Wan, remember its incense, pirates, and hidden treasures.