Cheung Shek Tsui

What secrets do the waves whisper to Cheung Shek Tsui? Cheung Shek Tsui, also known as Belcher Point, stands between Sai Ying Pun and Kennedy Town, a whisper of old Hong Kong. Its name, meaning “Stone Pond Mouth,” echoes a time when Hakka miners carved granite from the earth, gathering at a stone pond near present-day Hill Road. Imagine Cheung Shek Tsui in the early 1900s. It transformed from a quiet enclave into Hong Kong’s red-light district. The island’s brothels, previously located in Sheung Wan, found a new home here. The area pulsed with a different kind of energy. Affluent Chinese sought entertainment in Cheung Shek Tsui’s Cantonese opera theatres and restaurants, creating an atmosphere captured in the saying “tong sai fung yuet,” meaning “good times west of the pond.” This era, however, had a fixed expiration date. In 1935, the Hong Kong government outlawed prostitution, bringing this chapter of Cheung Shek Tsui’s story to an end. But like a recurring motif, the past returned during the Japanese occupation. The renamed Kuramae (“before the storehouse”) once more became a center for brothels, this time catering exclusively to the Japanese military. After the war, Cheung Shek Tsui reclaimed its name and its former quietude. The ban on prostitution was reinstated, and the area transitioned into decades of urbanization. Today, remnants of the past linger. The clatter of boats in the harbor at night, a persistent echo of the area’s history. Elderly locals still gather, sharing stories that have been passed down through generations. Hidden alleys wind through pastel buildings, revealing glimpses of gorgeous temples and the quiet determination of noodle makers.