Is it possible that the name Sha Tau Kok, the area encompassing Kwat Tau Tam, comes from a Qing Dynasty poem? According to local legend, Qing officials once inspected the area. The poem they wrote goes like this: “The sun rises from the beach. The moon hangs above the cape.”
Welcome to Kwat Tau Tam. This bay is part of Sha Tau Kok. Sha Tau Kok is a closed town in North District Hong Kong. It is the last remaining major settlement in the Frontier Closed Area. It’s also Hong Kong’s northernmost town.
Sha Tau Kok has a rich history. Stone tools were found in San Tsuen. These tools date back to the Neolithic Period. Pottery from the Han dynasty was also found there.
The “Great Clearance” of the 17th century had a great impact here. It expelled most of the area’s original settlers. They moved to places like Yuen Long and Shenzhen. Hakka settlers then arrived in Sha Tau Kok. They settled along the northern shore of Mirs Bay. More Hakka villages were established in the 18th century.
The Sam Heung village alliance occupied the original shoreline of Sha Tau Kok. It was called Tai Tan Tung. Shan Tsui, Tong To, and Tam Shui Hang were the three villages.
Five wealthy villages invested in the reclamation of Sha Tau Kok in the early 1800s. These villages were Shan Tsui, Tam Shui Hang, Wo Hang, Nam Chung, and Luk Keng. They wanted more farmland for the growing population.
Leaders from about ten villages formed an alliance. This was called the Shap Yeuk. They established a new market at Sha Lan Ha around the 1830s. This allowed the Sha Tau Kok area to operate independently. The market was named Tung Wo Market. In the 1850s, there were approximately 50 shops.
Sha Tau Kok was leased to the British in 1898. This was a result of the Convention for the Extension of Hong Kong Territory. Tung Wo Market was not included in the lease. This created problems for shopkeepers. They were cut off from their ancestral villages in Hong Kong.
In 1967, demonstrators from Mainland China crossed the border. They attacked the police post in Sha Tau Kok. Five police officers were killed and eleven were injured.
Today, Sha Tau Kok is changing. Limited areas are opening to tourists. The government is studying how to redevelop the border control point. Since January 1, 2024, a daily quota of 1,000 individual visitors are permitted to visit Sha Tau Kok. They need a Tourism Closed Area Permit.
Kwat Tau Tam offers stunning views. It’s a reminder of Hong Kong’s past. This area is also looking forward to a future with more tourism.
The Cape of Sha Tau Kok marks the town’s easternmost point. A stone tablet here is inscribed with the poem: “The sun rises from the beach. The moon hangs above the cape”. As you stand here at Kwat Tau Tam, consider the rich tapestry of history. Consider the blend of cultures that have shaped this unique corner of Hong Kong.