Улаанбаатар ирээдүй сүм

Did the shimmering red light atop Bogd Khan Mountain inspire a centuries-old ceremony? We stand before the former site of Ulaanbaatar Ikh Khüree Temple, also known as Narkhajid Süm. This sacred place, once a vibrant hub of spiritual practice, holds a fascinating tale. Ulaanbaatar Ikh Khüree Temple was founded in 1840. It was established at the behest of the 5th Jebtsundamba Khutuktu. The temple was also called Narkhajid Süm, named after its primary deity, Narkhajid (Sarvabuddhadakini). Visualize a square, two-story edifice adorned with a green-tiled roof, crowned with a golden ornament. Two yurts graced the courtyard, adding to the serene ambiance. The temple’s main protector deities were Lkhan-aa Demchog (five deities of Chakrasamvara mandala) and Dolgornaljormaa (White Tara yogini). Interestingly, the temple’s expenses were covered by the great treasury (Ikh Jas), even though it had its own financial unit. The 5th Jebtsundamba Khutuktu’s meditation on Narkhajid is said to have sparked the creation of a special ceremony. During his meditation, a red light appeared above Bogd Khan Mountain and the Tuul River. This inspired the annual Khajid festival, celebrated on the 25th of the last winter month. This ceremony, known as Khajid Chögo, featured a variety of musical instruments and involved both lamas and female practitioners (emegtei lam or khandmaa). Ulaanbaatar Ikh Khüree Temple sadly met its end in the winter of 1937. Its statues and books were relocated to the White Palace (Güngaadejidlin), and the temple was closed. Though the original structure is gone, the Khajid ceremony lives on. It’s still performed in larger Mongolian monasteries like Gandan and Züün Khüree Dashchoilin monasteries in Ulaanbaatar, a testament to the temple’s enduring legacy.