又玄禅寺

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Zen’yō-ji Temple. A name that may not ring a bell like Senso-ji or Meiji Jingu, but trust me, this hidden gem in Setagaya is worth discovering. Zen’yō-ji Temple offers a unique blend of cultures, a touch of Korea, a whisper of India, all nestled within the heart of Tokyo. Notice the pair of haetae guarding the stone steps? These mythical creatures, similar to lion-dogs, hail from Korean mythology and are a rare sight in Japan. As you ascend, imagine the stories this ancient place could tell. Zen’yō-ji Temple was founded between 1648 and 1651. Yet, on these very grounds, stands a kaya tree, a Japanese nutmeg-yew, estimated to be 700 to 800 years old. It predates the temple itself. Local folklore weaves a charming tale around this venerable tree. A chieftain’s kind daughter saved a mother crab and her baby from drowning. The grateful crab gifted her a seed, which sprouted into this magnificent kaya tree. This has earned Zen’yō-ji the nickname “Kaya Temple.” Look closer, at the roots, and you might spot small crab sculptures, a tribute to this heartwarming legend. And here’s a quirky tidbit for you: every winter, the monks nourish the kaya tree with beer and sake, ensuring its continued vitality. The main building of Zen’yō-ji Temple takes inspiration from the Tōshōdai-ji Temple of Nara. Its architecture reflects the ancient Tenpyō style, giving it a distinctly Chinese aesthetic. The gold-painted Buddha statue in front further enhances this eclectic mix, reminiscent of Southeast Asian traditions. Zen’yō-ji’s cultural fusion continues in the garden. There, you’ll find statues of a kappa (water goblin), a frog, and a sheep, crafted in the style of ancient Korea. But perhaps the most unexpected sight awaits you in a quiet corner: a statue of Ganesha. The elephant-headed Hindu deity, appearing just as he does in India. This is a true rarity, as Ganesha’s Japanese Buddhist counterpart is rarely seen in public view. Zen’yō-ji Temple is more than just a place of worship. It is a testament to the interconnectedness of cultures. A place where Korean mythology meets ancient Chinese architecture, where Indian deities reside alongside Japanese folklore. So, as you leave Zen’yō-ji, remember the haetae, the ancient kaya tree, and the benevolent Ganesha. These are the whispers of history, the echoes of different worlds, converging in this unique Tokyo temple.

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