Is there anything better than to find respite in the middle of Tokyo? Today, we find ourselves in Kiyosumi, a district that beautifully blends old-town charm with a burgeoning modern coffee culture. Kiyosumi Shirakawa is east of Tokyo Station. It is a place where the traditional and the trendy coexist harmoniously.
Kiyosumi wasn’t always known for its coffee shops and art galleries. Once, it was a working-class neighborhood. But recent years have brought a creative renaissance. Independent roasters and modern art galleries now line the streets. Yet, Kiyosumi still manages to preserve its Edo period charm.
Our first stop is Kiyosumi Gardens. This traditional Japanese landscape garden spans about 37,000 square meters. It features three islands and a teahouse on a serene pond. The garden was originally used by feudal lords. It even served as an evacuation area during the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923. Cross the pond using the iso-watari stepping stones. You can see carp, turtles, and waterfowls.
After a peaceful walk, let’s dive into Kiyosumi’s coffee scene. There are around 20 third-wave coffee shops in this area. Blue Bottle Coffee even has a location here. It occupies a large two-story storehouse with big windows and an open-floor plan. If you are more for the rustic, you will find laidback classic coffee shops.
Don’t miss the Fukagawa Edo Museum. It is a short walk from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station. This museum is a life-sized replica of a Tokyo shitamachi neighborhood from around 1840. It includes houses, shops, a boathouse, and a fire tower. The buildings were constructed using traditional techniques. The lighting even changes to reflect the time of day.
Kiyosumi is also home to modern art. The Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo boasts one of the largest collections in the country. Here you will find works by Roy Lichtenstein and Yoko Ono. There are five floors of contemporary art, an art library, a museum shop, a restaurant, a cafe, and a lounge.
Even the Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station has art. The metal walls of the train platform on the Toei Oedo Line were created using scrap metal from industrial products made during Japan’s period of rapid economic growth after World War II. This installation was made by sculptor Shoichiro Higuchi.
As you wander through Kiyosumi’s streets, you’ll notice the blend of old and new. Hip coffee places blend into their neighborhoods. Quaint shops hide between residences. Kiyosumi offers a unique charm that makes you want to return again and again.