Deep within Yamagata Prefecture Mt. Haguro beckons. It is one of the sacred Three Mountains of Dewa. This mountain stands as the most accessible. It is the only one open year-round.
Haguroyama Shrine at its summit symbolizes birth. It is often the first shrine visited on the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage. Are you ready to explore this spiritual wonder?
Mt. Haguro represents the present. It marks the start of a sacred pilgrimage. This pilgrimage is known as the Journey of Rebirth. This journey involves traversing the present, past, and future on these three holy mountains. Yamabushi, mountain monks, partake in this journey. They revere nature. They follow the ancient religion of Shugendo.
The 2446 stone steps up Mt. Haguro create a stunning 1.7km walk. The path winds through a towering cedar forest. Temples and shrines line the way. They honor the deities believed to dwell here. Uganomitama-No-Mikoto, the god of agriculture, resides here. Ideha-No-Kami watches over the former Dewa Province. The Five-Story Pagoda is also found here. It is a towering wooden structure. It has been designated as a national treasure of Japan. The Dewa Sanzan Shrine stands at the mountain’s peak.
Tenyu, the 50th chief priest, constructed the 1.7km path in the 1600s. It took roughly 13 years. The walk up is not too difficult. Anyone in good health can complete it. Plenty of places exist to stop and catch your breath. There is even a teahouse halfway up the path.
These steps are designated as a national treasure of Japan. They blend beautifully into the forest. Turn around to admire the priests’ incredible work. They have maintained this path for centuries.
Allow about 1.5 hours to walk up Mt. Haguro. If you are feeling lucky, try to find the markings of gourds. Look for bowls or ceramic sake jugs carved into some steps. It is said that if you find 33, your wish will be granted.
In ancient times, women weren’t allowed past the Haraigawa River. It was deemed too dangerous. They prayed at the Shirayama Shrine instead. This changed during the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Mt. Haguro became a Shinto Mountain.
After crossing the bridge over the Haraigawa, the path meanders up the hill. Here, a giant cedar tree is enshrined. This is the Grandpa Cedar Tree. Of the estimated 600 cedar trees on Mt. Haguro, the Grandpa Cedar is thought to be the oldest. It is over 1000 years of age. It is also the tallest at 43m in height. The Grandpa Cedar Tree has been a widower. He lost his partner, the Grandma Cedar Tree, more than 100 years ago.
Just past the Grandpa Cedar Tree stands the imposing Five-Storied Pagoda. The current structure was rebuilt in 1372. The pagoda preserves the original natural color of the wood. This is called Shirakizukuri. No nails were used in its construction.
Each roof has been built in an ancient Japanese style called Kokerabuki. Unlike other pagodas found in Japan, they are all the same size. This ensures that only the top roof has to counteract the weight of the snow.
For centuries, the people of the Dewa Sanzan have religiously taken turns climbing up the middle of the pagoda. They clear the snow from the roof each year. This pagoda also has an earthquake dampening system. It is a giant swinging pendulum to counteract shakes.
The yamabushi monks of the Dewa Sanzan lead special training and experience programs. They welcome respectful participants. They invite them to join their rituals.
Shojin Ryori can also be enjoyed here. Visit Saikan, a restaurant next to the Dewa Sanzan Shrine on top of Mt. Haguro. This is the spiritual cuisine of the Yamabushi. It dates back to the founding of these mountains 14 centuries ago.
As we conclude our visit to Haguroyama Shrine remember the Journey of Rebirth. Remember the mountain monks. Remember the blend of nature and spirituality. May the blessings of Haguroyama stay with you.