“Why an island for the dead?” This is often the first question visitors ask about San Michele. Venice, an island community, extends its embrace to its deceased. It created a serene island of rest in the lagoon. Let me tell you the story of San Michele.
San Michele wasn’t always a single island. Originally, it consisted of two islands. These were San Michele and San Cristoforo della Pace. In 1806 Napoleon Bonaparte chose San Cristoforo to become the city’s cemetery. Soon, space was lacking. The nearby island of San Michele seemed a practical solution. A channel separated the two islands. To unite them, workers buried the channel.
Today, San Cristoforo della Pace exists only in memory. It is part of San Michele. In the 14th century, San Cristoforo hosted a windmill. Later, it housed a women’s hospice and a convent. Giannantonio Selva received the commission to build the cemetery. It was completed in May 1813. The chapel and cemetery were blessed that year.
Tradition says the history of San Michele began in the 10th century. A church dedicated to the Archangel Michael was built. The Briosa and Brustolana families commissioned it. Some say it was once called Cavana de Muran. It served as shelter for boats from Murano. Legend claims Saint Romualdo, founder of the Camaldolese order, visited here. In 1212, bishops gave the church to the Camaldolese order. They renovated the church and built a monastery.
Mauro Codussi rebuilt the complex in the 15th century. He was a significant architect in Venice. He designed the church of Santa Maria Formosa and Ca’ Vendramin Calergi. The church of San Michele is considered the first Renaissance church in Venice. Construction occurred between 1469 and 1479. During the 16th century, builders added the cloister and the Emiliani chapel.
During the Napoleonic era, the community dissolved. The state confiscated the property. Later, the Austrians converted the structure into a political prison. Silvio Pellico, a writer and patriot, was imprisoned here.
The facade of the church of San Michele is made of Istrian stone. It is tripartite and inspired by Leon Battista Alberti’s Malatesta temple. The lower level has smooth rustication. The upper level features a large oculus. Four polychrome marble discs surround it. The inscription “Domus mea domus orationis” is visible on the facade. It is taken from the Gospel of Matthew.
Inside, round arches divide the interior into three naves. Columns support the arches. A carved and golden rose embellishes the coffered ceiling. The blue background makes it stand out. The church has a perfectly square central body.
The Emiliani Chapel is next to the church’s facade. Margherita Vitturi left money to build a place of worship. It was in memory of her late husband. She wanted to dedicate it to Santa Maria Annunziata. Guglielmo de’ Grigi finished the chapel in 1543. Jacopo Sansovino restored it later. The Emiliani Chapel has a hexagonal plan. A dome covers it. Inside are three small altars. Each altar features marble altarpieces. These represent the Annunciation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Adoration of the Shepherds.
San Michele is best known for its cemetery. Many famous people rest here. In 1810, Napoleon suppressed the Camaldolese monastery. The island became state property. The Municipality then bought it to join it to San Cristoforo. The first burials on San Michele began in 1826. In 1843, a competition sought the stylistic unification of the complex. Lorenzo Urbani won, but the work stopped. Annibale Forcellini won a new competition in 1858. The cemetery was built between 1870 and 1876.
The cemetery of San Michele has a simple structure. It has a Greek cross plan and a perimeter of red bricks. Istrian stone decorates it. Until 1950, the entrance was from Fondamenta Nove. Every November, a bridge of boats connected Fondamenta with San Michele. This custom returned in 2019. A side door leads to the Chapel of San Rocco. The modern area joins the ancient one. A cypress-lined avenue leads to the church of San Cristoforo.
Inside, the cemetery divides into Catholic, Orthodox, and Evangelical areas. Many famous names are on the tombstones. Igor Stravinsky, Luigi Nono, and Ezra Pound are among them. San Michele is a place of peace. It is an integral part of Venice. Remember to enter with respect.