The imposing facade of San Michele in Isola greets you. Its Istrian stone gleams pale gray in the Venetian sun. This isn’t just any church. San Michele in Isola is a vital part of Venetian history. It’s more than a house of worship. It’s a testament to the city’s past.
Originally two islands San Michele and San Cristoforo della Pace existed. In 1806 Napoleon Bonaparte ordered a new cemetery. He chose San Cristoforo. The need for expansion arose quickly. The solution was ingenious. The canal separating the two islands was filled. One island San Michele became the city’s main cemetery.
The church itself boasts a rich history. It started as a simple structure in the 10th century. The Briosa and Brustolana families commissioned it. It was dedicated to the Archangel Michael. Later it was granted to the Camaldolese order in 1212. The order significantly renovated the church. They also built a monastery next to it.
The Renaissance touched San Michele in Isola. Mauro Codussi a renowned Venetian architect rebuilt the entire complex. He was also the designer of prestigious buildings like Santa Maria Formosa. The rebuilt church finished between 1469 and 1479 is considered Venice’s first Renaissance church. Its facade is freely inspired by Alberti’s Malatesta Temple in Rimini. The inscription “Domus mea domus orationis” graces the facade. It’s a quote from the Gospel of Matthew 21:13.
The interior is equally impressive. Three naves are divided by round arches supported by columns. The coffered ceiling features a carved golden rose. The square central body is a striking feature. The Emiliani Chapel adds to the complex’s allure. Noblewoman Margherita Vitturi commissioned it in memory of her husband. Guglielmo de’ Grigi designed it. Jacopo Sansovino later restored it. Its hexagonal plan and white Istrian stone dome are exquisite.
San Michele’s cemetery holds many famous names. Igor Stravinsky is buried here next to his collaborator Sergei Djagilev. Luigi Nono a composer writer and politician also rests here. Ezra Pound the American poet who lived much of his life in Italy is buried here as well.
This serene island is a place of profound history. It blends seamlessly with the bustling city of Venice. San Michele in Isola is a monument to faith art and death. Its beauty and history leave a lasting impression. Remember to treat this sacred space with respect.