Gyllene porten

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What if I told you that the walls around us contain over 18.6 million pieces? This is the Gyllene porten. It is more than just a doorway. It is a shimmering testament to Stockholm’s history and artistry.

Gyllene porten translates to the Golden Gate. While it might sound like a simple entrance, it’s actually a grand hall. It is a lavish banqueting hall within Stockholm’s City Hall.

The story of Gyllene porten begins with a debate. In 1908, city officials wanted a grand hall. They called it Gyllene Salen which translates to Golden Hall. But cladding an entire hall in gold seemed extravagant during a time of scarcity.

Ragnar Östberg, the City Hall architect, initially envisioned a stone room. It would feature finely hewn granite with a medieval feel. Then came an anonymous donation. Josef Sachs, founder of Nordiska Kompaniet, stepped forward. His contribution of 300,000 kronor made the golden dream a reality. This sum equates to almost 8 million kronor today.

The walls of Gyllene porten are covered in mosaic. These mosaics were assembled between 1921 and 1923. The renowned German mosaic firm Puhl & Wagner in Berlin undertook the project. The commission cost 285,000 kronor, later rising by 60,000 kronor. Einar Forseth, a 28-year-old artist at the time, created the sketches. His designs, inspired by Ragnar Östberg’s vision, depict allegorical scenes. They portray figures from Swedish history in a Byzantine-influenced style.

The mosaic’s installation was a feat of engineering. Instead of directly setting the mosaic stones into the walls, they used an indirect method. This involved sticking mosaic pieces onto paper. This was done in reverse at Puhl & Wagner’s studio in Berlin. These paper-backed sections were then transported to Stockholm. Workers pressed them into the wall plaster. After the plaster set, they washed away the paper.

Over 18.6 million pieces of colored glass make up the mosaic. Eleven kilos of 23.5-karat gold leaf were also used. In 2009, the gold alone was worth approximately 2.8 million kronor.

The northern wall showcases the majestic Mälardrottningen. She is the Queen of Lake Mälaren and the symbol of Stockholm. She holds a scepter and crown. The Stockholm City Hall, Royal Palace, and Storkyrkan nestle in her lap. Modern motifs from New York and Paris appear on her right. Exotic images from the Orient adorn her left. These symbolize Stockholm as “honored by East and West.”

The southern wall presents various Stockholm motifs. To the left of the entrance, you can see Stockholm Harbor. Katarina Elevator and Riddarholm Church are also visible. The City Hall itself is depicted to the right. Above the entrance, the Old Royal Castle “Tre Kronor” is illustrated. Above that, Saint Erik rides a horse without a visible head. The mosaic was taller than planned. They forgot to account for the wall’s high base. Saint Erik’s head ended up above the ceiling. Adjusting the mosaic would have been too costly.

Originally, the ceiling was meant to be coffered. It was later changed to the current design. It features closely spaced beams with decorative paintings. The floor is patterned marble. It displays the coat of arms of cities around Lake Mälaren. Stockholm is represented by four different coats of arms. One sits in each corner of the hall.

Gyllene porten is where the Nobel banquet’s after-party takes place. It is a space where history, art, and celebration intertwine. As you stand here, imagine the echoes of music and laughter. Think of the millions of mosaic pieces shimmering around you. Each tells a story of Stockholm’s golden age.

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