Have you heard about the island that stands as a defender between the Venetian Lagoon and the Adriatic Sea? This is Lido-Pellestrina. It is a long thin island that is part of the barrier of lidi. These lidi divide the Venetian lagoon from the sea.
Lido-Pellestrina stretches 11 kilometers long. Yet, it is only 150 to 200 meters wide. About 4500 people call this narrow strip of land home.
Once, Lido-Pellestrina was just mudbanks. Now, the central island of Lido di Venezia is a popular resort. At the southern end of Lido is an opening to the sea. On the other side lies Pellestrina. Another opening to the sea sits at the far end of Pellestrina. Beyond is the southern end of the lagoon and Chioggia.
Imagine the 18th century. Lido-Pellestrina got large embankments. These Murazzi protect the island from the sea. The sea wall is a major attraction. It is made mainly of kart marble from Istria.
Consider taking a bus from Lido to Chioggia. Bus number 11 takes a vehicle ferry between the two islands. It runs the length of Pellestrina along the sea wall. The bus stops where the road ends. A waterbus then takes passengers to Chioggia. The final terminus beside the ferry stop is the best place to explore Pellestrina.
The island faces the lagoon. However, residents sometimes cross to the Adriatic. Steps along the sea wall lead to rough beaches. You may find washed-up seaweed. Locals still set up parasols and chairs here in summer.
The settlement is only a couple of lanes wide. A walkway runs along the lagoon shore. Fishing boats moor here. The atmosphere offers a settled workaday calm. It is different from Venice, Lido or Chioggia.
Lido-Pellestrina features four main villages. These are San Pietro in Volta, Porto Secco, Sant’ Antonio di Pellestrina and Pellestrina. They boast colourful houses, gardens, fishing fleets and lace-makers.
Pellestrina is the main town in the island’s south. Its houses date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The four sestieri are Scarpa, Zennari, Vianelli and Busetti. These names come from four families. The mayor of Chioggia sent them to repopulate the island. Genoa destroyed it during a war against Venice in the late 1300s.
Five churches dot the island. The Santuario Madonna dell’Apparizione is best known. It marks the apparition of the Madonna to a local teenager in the 18th century. A plaque in the church marks the spot. Natalino Scarpa is buried in the choir.
Lace-making is a key industry. Pellestrina is known for bobbin lace. Cotton threads unroll from bobbins on a round cushion.
Pellestrina is known for seafood. Restaurants serve cicheti of the lagoon. Freshly caught fish is prepared in many ways.
The island celebrates several festivals. These include Saint Peter’s Festival and the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary’s Day. The Traditional Pellestrina Regatta also occurs.
Donna Leon’s novel A Sea of Troubles takes place on Pellestrina. Commissario Guido Brunetti investigates murders. He faces a close-knit community suspicious of outsiders.
Martin Cruz Smith’s novel The Girl from Venice features Cenzo Vianelli. He is a fisherman living in Pellestrina in 1945.
So, when you seek a peaceful escape, remember Lido-Pellestrina. Its sea walls, colorful houses and rich history await. It is a unique island between the lagoon and the sea.