Sword cuts scar the pillars of Tozen-ji. These aren’t mere decorations. They’re brutal reminders of a tumultuous past. Right here in Minato Tokyo stands Tozen-ji a Buddhist temple steeped in history. It’s more than just a place of worship. It’s a living testament to the clash between East and West during Japan’s opening to the world.
Established in 1610 Tozen-ji initially resided in Akasaka. Later it moved to its current location directly on Edo Bay earning the evocative nickname Kaijo Zenrin the Zen forest above the sea. Over the centuries Tozen-ji served as the bodaiji or family temple for numerous powerful clans. The Date Ikeda Suwa Matsudaira Oda Inaba and Mori clans all found solace and spiritual guidance within its walls.
But Tozen-ji’s most famous role began in 1859. It became the first British legation in Japan. Rutherford Alcock the British Consul-General chose Tozen-ji. He saw its size and status as appropriate. Japanese authorities however were less enthusiastic. They preferred Yokohama. They worried about Tozen-ji’s location at the entrance to the Tokaido highway. This was Japan’s busiest and most important road. It was highly vulnerable to attacks.
Alcock disregarded their warnings. The legation opened. Trouble followed quickly. In January 1860 Kobayashi Denkichi Alcock’s interpreter was murdered. This foreshadowed the violence to come.
The first major attack happened in July 1861. Ronin from Mito Domain led by Ariga Hanya stormed the legation. The Japanese guards fought back fiercely. Three attackers died. Two defenders also lost their lives. Many others were wounded. Alcock himself fired his revolver. The surviving attackers faced harsh consequences. Some were executed. Others committed seppuku ritual suicide.
Alcock was shaken. He initially blamed the Japanese guards for their perceived inaction. He exaggerated his own role in repelling the attack. He demanded a British garrison increased guards and substantial compensation. The Shogunate conceded.
The second attack occurred in June 1862. This time Itō Gunbei a guard tried to assassinate Lieutenant Colonel Edward St John Neale. He killed two Royal Marines before being subdued and committing seppuku. The British legation permanently moved to Yokohama.
Today Tozen-ji stands peacefully. The sword cuts and bullet holes from these attacks remain visible. They are a silent testimony to the turbulent period when this temple played a pivotal role in shaping Japan’s relationship with the West. They remind us of Tozen-ji’s unique position in history. It’s a place of both serene beauty and powerful historical significance.