Šmukýřka

From a humble vineyard to a grand estate, the story of Šmukýřka unfolds before you. Šmukýřka sits atop this hill, overlooking the Jinonice Valley, a silent witness to centuries of change. This place, Šmukýřka, wasn’t always known by this peculiar name. In the 15th century, it was simply part of a sprawling Carthusian vineyard, spanning over 14 hectares. Imagine the monks tending the vines, their chants echoing through the valley. After the Hussite Wars, the vineyard was confiscated and sold. It passed through several hands, even belonging to a man named Kliment Křížek, who gave the hill its temporary name, “Křížkova hora,” or “Křížek’s Mountain.” Šmukýřka, as we know it, began to take shape in the late 17th century. The name, first appearing around 1695, is a whimsical nod to one of its early wealthy owners, a “šmukýř.” This old Czech word refers to a craftsman who embellished hats, clothes, and even weapons with intricate decorations. Think of feathers, pearls, and sparkling threads transforming ordinary objects into works of art. The estate itself wasn’t established until 1713, and it gradually evolved into its current Baroque form by the end of the 18th century. Further renovations in 1820 added a touch of classicism to the design. Picture the elegant facade with its hipped roof, a testament to its evolving architectural heritage. Šmukýřka was later owned by the Linhart family, who also possessed the Turbová estate in Košíře. In the early 20th century, a young Mikoláš Aleš, a renowned Czech painter, visited the Linharts. He left his mark on Šmukýřka with a charcoal sketch of King George of Poděbrady’s coat of arms, hidden within the house. It remains the only known wall painting by Aleš in existence. Šmukýřka’s story took an interesting turn in the mid-20th century. It was briefly considered as the site of a large kindergarten. Imagine children playing in the gardens where vines once grew. This plan was abandoned, but later, the nearby Turbová school used the gardens and chapel as storage. In 1964, Šmukýřka was recognized as a cultural monument. It underwent extensive renovations to serve as a warehouse for Prague Wholesale and the Municipal Theatres. Šmukýřka stands before you today, a blend of architectural styles and historical echoes. The main building, with its half-timbered upper floor and hipped roof, overlooks the courtyard. The surrounding farm buildings and the remnants of a garden, a sala terrena, and the chapel of St. Prokop tell tales of a bygone era. Although the estate is currently in disrepair and not open to the public, its story, from vineyard to grand estate, continues to resonate with the past.