“How did a temple become a diplomatic battleground?” That is the question that looms over Tōzen-ji. This Buddhist temple in Tokyo holds a history far more turbulent than its serene facade suggests. Tōzen-ji is not just a place of worship. It is a landmark forever etched with the clashes between Japan and the West.
Let’s step back to 1610 when Ryōnan Zenji established Tōzen-ji in Akasaka. Its name honored Itō Sukenori, the daimyō of Obi Domain. In 1636 the temple relocated to its current site. Back then it stood right on Edo Bay. People nicknamed it Kaijō Zenrin. This means the Zen forest above the sea. Tōzen-ji served as the family temple for many daimyō clans during the Edo Period. These clans included the Date clan of Sendai Domain and the Ikeda clan of Okayama Domain.
Now picture this. It is the Bakumatsu period. Japan reluctantly opens its doors to the world. In 1859 Rutherford Alcock the British Consul-General chose Tōzen-ji as the site for the first British legation in Japan. The Tokugawa Shogunate often used temples for foreign dignitaries. Alcock considered Tōzen-ji suitable in size and status. Japanese authorities advised against this choice. They knew Tōzen-ji sat at the entrance to the Tōkaidō. This was the busiest highway making it vulnerable to attacks.
Alcock would not be deterred. The British legation opened. Trouble soon followed. In January 1860 Alcock’s interpreter was murdered at the legation gate. This grim event foreshadowed greater violence.
In May 1861 Alcock returned to Edo. He insisted on traveling overland. This upheld a treaty provision that diplomats should not have restricted movement. This angered the sonnō jōi party. Extremist rōnin from Mito Domain plotted an attack. On the night of July 5th they stormed the legation.
Inside some staff watched a comet. Alcock slept unaware. Japanese sentries from Nishio Domain and Yamato-Kōriyama Domain guarded the legation. Despite initial normalcy the Mito rōnin struck. The Japanese sentries fought fiercely. They killed three attackers including their leader. Two defenders died. Ten were wounded including George Morrison and Laurence Oliphant. Alcock grabbed his revolver and fired shots as the battle ended.
The aftermath was brutal. Captured rōnin faced execution or seppuku. Those who escaped met violent ends later. Alcock finally understood the depth of anti-foreign sentiment. He threatened to use the attack as a reason for war. He demanded a British garrison at the legation more Japanese guards and compensation.
The shogunate conceded. However Alcock downplayed the role of the Japanese guards in his memoirs. Sword cuts and bullet marks remain on the main hall pillars as evidence.
After the attack Alcock moved the legation to Yokohama. But in 1862 it returned to Tōzen-ji temporarily. Lieutenant Colonel Edward St. John Neale was in charge. One guard from Matsumoto Domain Itō Gunbei resented the expense and potential bloodshed. He tried to assassinate Neale. He killed two Royal Marines before being stopped. Itō committed seppuku. The British then withdrew to Yokohama.
The second Tōzen-ji incident led to a permanent British Military Garrison in Japan. The temple ceased being the official British legation. Tōzen-ji stands today. It is a reminder of a pivotal era. It embodies the clash of cultures. It is also a testament to resilience. As you stand here consider Tōzen-ji’s layers of history. This is where diplomacy turned violent and a temple became a stage for international conflict.