Chiesa San Francesco del Deserto

Silence. Can you feel it? Here on San Francesco del Deserto, the quiet whispers of history seem to mingle with the gentle lapping of the lagoon against the shore. Chiesa San Francesco del Deserto isn’t just an island; it’s a sanctuary. A place where time slows, where the echoes of St. Francis of Assisi still resonate in the rustling leaves of the cypresses. The island’s story begins long before its association with the saint, all the way back to Roman times. But it was in 1220, upon his return from the Fifth Crusade, that St. Francis found refuge here. Legend says he planted his walking stick, a simple pine branch, which miraculously sprouted into a tree. You can still see the remnants of this legendary tree within the church walls. Jacopo Michiel, the island’s owner, gifted it to the Franciscan Order in 1233. This quiet haven then became “Isola di San Francesco”. The name “del Deserto,” meaning “of the desert,” was added later, during a period of abandonment in the 15th century, likely due to malaria outbreaks. The island’s tranquility was shattered in 1806 when Napoleon’s troops occupied San Francesco del Deserto. They ransacked the monastery, transforming the church into an arsenal and powder store. But the Franciscan spirit endured. Thanks to Padre Bernardino da Portogruaro, the island was returned to the Diocese of Venice in 1858, allowing the monks to return. As you explore the Chiesa San Francesco del Deserto, notice the two cloisters. The first, dating back to the 13th century, bears the scars of Napoleon’s occupation, later restored by the returning Franciscans. The second, a serene 15th-century cloister, remains private for the monks, its central well a testament to their self-sufficiency. The church itself, built in 1401 over an older Byzantine structure, holds further secrets. A stone tablet outside tells the story of St. Francis silencing the birds so his companion could pray. Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Fra Bernadino, who led the monks back to the island. He is now on the path to beatification, with one miracle already attributed to him. The island’s serenity and beauty have inspired artists and poets for centuries. Stand on the terraces, breathe in the salty air, gaze across the lagoon towards Burano, and let the peace of San Francesco del Deserto wash over you. You carry a piece of this tranquility with you.