Silent sentinels. That’s what these headstones at Sai Wan War Cemetery are. They stand in ordered rows. They commemorate a brutal conflict. This is more than a burial ground. Sai Wan War Cemetery is a testament to sacrifice. It is a memorial to courage.
Sai Wan War Cemetery is a military cemetery in Chai Wan Hong Kong. It was built in 1946. This serene place commemorates soldiers of the Hong Kong Garrison. These soldiers perished in World War II. Even 12 World War I burials are here. A total of 1528 soldiers are commemorated here. They are mainly from the Commonwealth.
Let’s step back in time to December 8 1941. Just hours after Pearl Harbor Japanese forces invaded Hong Kong. Allied forces began a futile defense. They were mainly British Canadian Australian and Indian. Hong Kong was deemed militarily undefendable. The garrison was ordered to resist. Six infantry battalions defended Hong Kong. Fierce combat occurred at several locations. Shing Mun Redoubt saw heavy fighting. Wong Nai Chung Gap was a battlefield. Mount Butler also witnessed intense conflict. The shores of Lye Moon Passage were contested. Devil’s Peak was a site of war. Stanley Fort was a final stand. Allied troops suffered overwhelming casualties.
Japanese forces crossed the Sham Chun River easily. They entered through the mainland in the north. Three British Army battalions manned the Gin Drinkers Line. The Royal Scots were to the west. The Punjab Regiment was in the center. The Rajput Regiment was to the east.
The Rajput Regiment suffered the heaviest losses. 156 were killed in action or died from wounds. 113 went missing. 193 were wounded. The Punjab Regiment also bore heavy losses. Hong Kong and Singapore Royal Artillery suffered too. They were recruited from Undivided India. Their names are inscribed on panels at the entrance to Sai Wan War Cemetery.
Intense battles raged on Hong Kong Island. The British surrendered on Christmas Day. This marked the start of the Japanese occupation. It lasted until the Japanese surrendered unconditionally three years later. Many defenders died from disease. Some drowned. Others were maltreated or executed. This happened during captivity in Hong Kong and Japan.
Most Allied soldiers were interred at Sai Wan Military Cemetery. This includes British Canadian and Indian soldiers. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission oversees this place. It contains commemorative graves and plaques. These honor 914 soldiers from Undivided India. Some are interred here. Others were cremated. Their names are on commemorative plaques. Sai Wan War Cemetery holds the graves of 228 Canadians.
The cemetery is on the western slope of Pottinger Peak. It slopes toward the sea. It once provided views of the harbor narrow at Lei Yue Mun. The Japanese crossed here on December 18. They landed on Hong Kong Island. That night 20 gunners at Sai Wan Battery were massacred. Today high rises obstruct the harbor view.
Sai Wan War Cemetery was built in 1946. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintains it. They have leased the land since 1953. The memorial hall has panels. They bear names of over 2000 Commonwealth servicemen. These servicemen died in the Battle of Hong Kong. They died in captivity. They have no known grave. Additional panels form the cremation memorial. These bear names of British Indian Army casualties. Their remains were cremated according to their faith. The Sai Wan China Memorial commemorates casualties. Their graves in mainland China could not be maintained. Twenty local soldiers and eight civilians are buried here too.
British graves are at the top level. Canadian and Dutch graves are in the middle. Graves of soldiers from Undivided India are at the bottom. War graves have white granite headstones. They depict the regiment’s insignia. The cemetery is enclosed by flowering shrubs. An Altar of Remembrance marks the top of stone steps. It bears words from Sirach. “Their name liveth for evermore.” Both the cemetery and memorial were designed by Colin St Clair Oakes.
Remains of POWs from Taiwan were brought to Sai Wan for burial. There are 1528 casualties of World War II buried or commemorated here. 444 burials are unidentified. They are marked “Known Unto God.” Special memorials honor casualties buried in a Kowloon Muslim cemetery. Their graves were lost. The cemetery also has special memorials. These honor World War I and World War II graves. They were in two Muslim cemeteries. Their graves have since been lost.
About 280 servicemen were from Canada. This includes Brigadier John K Lawson. He was the highest ranking officer killed in action. His remains were reburied here. Major General Lancelot Ernest Dennys is also buried here.
Company Sergeant-Major John Robert Osborn has no grave here. He received a Victoria Cross. His name is on the memorial hall. As we leave reflect on their courage. Remember their sacrifice. The silent sentinels of Sai Wan War Cemetery stand guard. They ensure their memory lives on.