Whispers of geishas and shoguns linger here in Arakicho. This small neighborhood retains the charm of its past. Today, Arakicho is a vertical maze. It features low-rise housing, quaint bars, and restaurants. These establishments line steep staircases and slim, sloping passages.
Arakicho exists on its own terms. It is often overshadowed by its neighbors. These include Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho. The area is eerily quiet during the day. At night, it flickers to life. Local eateries put out their noren curtains. Many boast Michelin stars.
To reach Arakicho, take the Marunouchi Line. Depart from Shinjuku Station and get off at Yotsuya-sanchome Station. The ride is only three stops. Alternatively, take the Shinjuku Line to Akebonobashi Station. It is a short walk from Arakicho.
Once, Arakicho was the site of Matsudaira’s estate. It featured a Japanese garden. This garden included a waterfall and pond surrounded by greenery. It then became a picturesque area. Restaurants gathered here, and it prospered as a geisha district. Vestiges of this history remain. They dot the area as landmarks.
One such landmark is Muchi no Ike. Legend says Tokugawa Ieyasu washed his horse whip in this pond. He was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The pond once spanned 130 meters in length and 40 meters in width. It even had a four-meter waterfall. Today, the pond is much smaller. Some believe it is home to kappa. These are mythical water creatures.
Near the pond is the Tsunokami Benzaiten Shrine. It is dedicated to Benzaiten. She is the goddess of water, music, and love. A short bridge connects visitors to the main sanctuary.
Arakicho boasts over 300 local restaurants and bars. Many are Michelin-starred. These include Arakicho Tatsuya, Oryori Horiuchi, and Suzunari.
Yakitori Ogawa reimagines Japanese chicken skewers. Chef Ogawa uses a neck-to-tail approach. Every part of the chicken has its place. Guests can choose from multi-course dining options.
Beef Nagayoshi bucks fine dining tropes. Owner-chef Nagayoshi Kiichiro grills the meat himself. He serves it straight from the counter.
Yakitori Sei adds its own twist to chicken skewers. Dining takes place at a long communal table. He stakes his reputation on Hinaiji chicken thigh meat.
Chiso Kondo offers kappo-style courses. Chef Kondo focuses on a single seasonal ingredient. He explores it in new and unexpected ways.
Arakicho Tenpaku refines tempura. It is fried with taihaku sesame oil. Each bite delivers a delicate crunch.
Oryori Horiuchi weaves an omakase course. It is rooted in a love for the land and sea. Chef Horiuchi believes all ingredients play main roles.
Arakicho Tatsuya woos guests with style. Owner-chef Ishiyama Tatsuya runs the show alone. He sources premium ingredients. He serves exquisitely plated dishes.
Suzunari excels in seasonal cooking. Chef Murata is a staunch advocate for Japanese produce. His raw sea urchin tamajimushi has become a signature dish.
As you leave Arakicho, remember the echoes of geishas. Envision the samurai washing his whip. Taste the culinary artistry. This neighborhood offers a unique glimpse into Tokyo’s past and present.