“Shhh, come closer,” I whisper. Listen to the echoes of old Tokyo within the walls of Yanaseso. Yanaseso stands as a testament to the city’s enduring spirit. Today, we’ll explore the charm of this unique museum. We will discover the stories it holds from a Tokyo long ago.
Yanaseso is located in Yanesen. Yanesen is part of Tokyo’s old downtown known as shitamachi. This collection of neighborhoods survived war and disasters when much of the city didn’t. People come to Yanesen to experience a more congenial pace of life.
Yanesen is really three different places: Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. These areas, along with neighboring Hongo, are typical shitamachi. Yanesen offers a glimpse into Tokyo’s past with a ‘local’ feel. It was spared from the firebombings of WW2. This quaint residential district allows you to sense Tokyo’s past.
Imagine strolling through Yanesen’s calm backstreets. There are many temples here. The neighborhood is nicknamed ‘the neighborhood of 100 temples’. Most temples are between 100 and 300 years old. Many are well-maintained with beautiful gardens.
Don’t miss the food in Yanesen. Shitamachi has hearty, “no fuss” fare. Try menchi katsu. It is a deep-fried minced meat cutlet. Also sample tendon, battered and deep-fried seafood. They put vegetables on a bowl of rice. Yanaka Ginza is a shopping arcade typical of shitamachi. You can find many dishes here.
For sweets, try daifuku. Daifuku contains sweet beans wrapped in soft mochi. Amezaiku is another local treat. The word Amezaiku means “candy craft”. The craftsperson heats up the candy. They deftly shape it into a bird, cat or even Godzilla. Amezaiku Yoshihara makes and sells amezaiku every day in Yanesen.
SCAI the Bathhouse is an art gallery specializing in contemporary art. It is housed in a bathhouse that has been reformed. It has a history of more than 200 years.
Nezu-jinja Shrine is one of Tokyo’s oldest shrines. Its tunnel of red torii gates might remind you of the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine in Kyoto.
Yanaka Ginza is a busy street. It is packed with traditional retail shops. They sell all sorts of cheap delicious Japanese snacks.
Tenouji temple is round the corner from Nippori station. It features a large copper Buddha. They originally built it in 1690.
Nezu jinja shrine was built in 1705. It is one of Tokyo’s oldest structures. These stone foxes are traditionally viewed by Japanese people as being sacred and mysterious figures. They supposedly protect the place in some way or another.
Take a moment to appreciate the local architecture. It exudes old-world charm. Many architectural gems have been meticulously preserved. They are now cafes, restaurants, and galleries.
Kyu-Yoshida Saketen belonged to a sake seller. It dates back to 1910. Kamakichu specializes in freshly-kneaded udon noodles. It is housed within a refurbished century-old storehouse. Kayaba Coffee is a family-run coffee shop which truly represents a legacy kissaten.
Yanaseso and Yanesen invite us to slow down. The area encourages us to appreciate the beauty of history. Let’s carry a piece of this old-world charm with us. Let’s remember the stories whispered by the walls of Yanaseso.