Is this a mirage? Grey brick walls rise before us. Welcome to Shan Ha Wai. It is also known as Tsang Tai Uk. This Hakka walled village stands as a testament to a family’s ambition. Shan Ha Wai is one of the best-preserved villages in Hong Kong. Let’s step back in time.
In 1847, Tsang Koon-Man, a wealthy granite merchant, began building this stronghold. Tsang Koon-Man wanted a secure home for his clan. It took around 20 years to complete Shan Ha Wai. Imagine the manpower involved.
Tsang Koon-Man was no ordinary man. He came from Wuhua in Guangdong province. He started as a quarryman in Hong Kong at just 16. He founded Sam Lee Quarry in Shaukiwan. The demand for building stone boomed as Hong Kong developed. Tsang Koon-Man seized the opportunity.
He bought land in Sha Tin. Then he built Shan Ha Wai. This village could house around 100 families. It became a refuge for about 500 people during World War II. That’s when it became known as Tsang Tai Uk.
Notice the rectangular layout. Shan Ha Wai has three rows of houses. They are enclosed by imposing grey brick walls. Look at the corners. Each has a three-story guard tower. Gun openings offered defense in troubled times. The houses connect through passages and courtyards.
In the innermost row sits the ancestral hall. Here, the Tsang clan held meetings and ceremonies. Three arched entrances punctuate the northern wall. The central entrance leads directly to the ancestral hall.
Consider the large courtyard. Villagers once used it to winnow and dry harvests. It also served as a study hall for Tsang children. Before schools existed, they were tutored here.
Shan Ha Wai has seen its share of challenges. In 1962, Typhoon Wanda flooded the village badly. The ground level was completely underwater. In the late 1970s, the government implemented drainage improvements.
Today, Shan Ha Wai is a Grade I historic building. Restoration work began in 2009 on the ancestral hall. A government grant helped with the maintenance. You can visit the first courtyard and ancestral hall. The other areas remain private.
Prince Charles, a history enthusiast, visited Shan Ha Wai in 1979. The village had about 700 residents then. Around 300 were Tsang clan members.
Take a moment to appreciate the solid timber and original granite. Shan Ha Wai is more than just bricks and stone. It represents the enduring legacy of the Tsang family. It is a window into Hong Kong’s past. A past of walled villages and Hakka traditions. Shan Ha Wai stands proudly.