Whispers of Lemonwood. Tuhitarata. The very name evokes the scent of the native tree. It’s a perfume that hangs in the air here a subtle fragrance woven into the fabric of this place.
Welcome to Tuhitarata Estate in the South Wairarapa. This isn’t just a homestead. It’s a living testament to a unique partnership between Maori and European settlers. A story etched into the very landscape. Tuhitarata meaning Decoration of sweet-smelling Lemonwood or The mark of Lemonwood speaks to the beauty of its surroundings. The land itself breathes history.
Our story begins in 1840. Angus McMaster and Mary McKenzie arrived in Wellington. A small settlement then Wellington barely held a candle to what it is today. Angus soon leased land here at Tuhitarata. He did so from Te Hiko Piata Tama-i-hikoia a paramount chief in the region. This wasn’t a simple land transaction. It was a pact. A foundation built on mutual respect and reliance. Angus became known as Hiko’s Pakeha living under the chief’s protection.
Imagine Mary’s journey. Eleven days on foot through swamp wetlands dense bush and towering Kahikatea trees. She arrived pregnant with their first child Hugh. The local Maori community welcomed them. They left baskets of potatoes for Mary a heartwarming gesture for the first European woman to settle in the Wairarapa. Hugh became known as Tuhitarata by the Maori community a testament to the intertwined destinies of these families.
Life at Tuhitarata wasn’t easy. Initially goats provided meat. Cattle provided butter a valuable commodity shipped from Wellington via mules and later by boat. This old lifeboat from a shipwrecked vessel became so crucial that its anchor held a place of honor on a veranda.
The relationship between Te Hiko and Angus deepened into friendship. Their families intermingled sharing mats and taniko cloth learning each other’s languages. Even their names intertwined. You can see the name Hiko McMaster carved above a barn door. This is just one physical manifestation of a bond that extended beyond life itself.
Te Hiko and Angus made a pact to be buried together. Their shared resting place a private cemetery at Tuhitarata is unique in New Zealand a shared final resting place for a Maori paramount chief’s family and a Pakeha family. It speaks to the enduring legacy of respect and cooperation they fostered. This tranquil knoll commands a broad view of the Wairarapa Valley. It is a fitting place of peace.
The McMaster family thrived building homesteads. At one time there was even a school on the estate. Sadly the family lost Tuhitarata during the Great Depression. Yet the anchor from the lifeboat still remains a memorial in the family cemetery. A poignant reminder of the strength resilience and enduring partnership that shaped Tuhitarata. A place where the scent of Lemonwood whispers tales of the past.