Three hundred and ninety-six thousand Deutschmarks That’s what it cost to build Neu St Alban. A bargain considering the history embedded within those bricks.
Right here in Cologne’s Neustadt-Nord district stands Neu St Alban. This isn’t just any church. It’s a testament to resilience a phoenix rising from the ashes of World War II. Its very foundation contains fragments of Cologne’s past. Specifically the rubble of the old opera house destroyed during the war. Those bricks whisper stories of grand performances and dramatic finales now reborn in a space dedicated to faith.
After the war rebuilding the severely damaged Romanesque St Alban church seemed impractical. The city wanted the land for a new Gurzenich. The archbishopric intended to divide the parish among neighbouring communities. A compromise was reached. The old church’s ruins became a memorial. The Konrad-von-Parzham Chapel in the tower was restored and remained part of the archbishopric. In exchange a new plot of land near the Stadtgarten was given for a new church. The new parish was created from parts of St Gereon and Neustadt-Nord beyond the Cologne Ring. It inherited the patron saint Saint Alban. It also received surviving or restorable furnishings from the old church. Even fifty acres of leased farmland in Hurth-Stotzheim were included.
Priest Hugo Poth spearheaded this remarkable transformation. He became Neu St Alban’s first pastor. Architect Hans Schilling designed the building. He was from Karl Band’s architectural office. Band had actually suggested the design of the Old St Alban memorial. To save money the church was built with rubble bricks. These were much cheaper than new bricks. They were in short supply but fortunately the demolition of the old opera house provided a ready source.
Construction began June 21 1957 Saint Alban’s feast day. The topping-out ceremony was April 21 1958. The church opened December 13 1958 with an organ dedication. The first mass was December 14 1958. Cardinal Joseph Frings consecrated it June 16 and 17 1959. The result was a stunning modern church that drew attention nationwide.
Neu St Alban’s design is unique. It faces north. The main body is pentagonal. The space is enclosed. Light filters in through narrow irregularly placed windows in red green and grey tones. These windows were created by Franz Pauli. The design was inspired by Le Corbusier’s Notre Dame du Haut in Ronchamp.
A parabolic 18-meter-high sanctuary extends from the main area. It resembles a tower. The roof slopes up towards the apse. The altar’s placement was a special concession. It was designed by Hans Schilling and positioned to face the congregation. This was unusual at the time but became standard after the Second Vatican Council.
A sacristy was added to the east side. Its entrance is by Elmar Hillebrand. Cardinal Frings suggested separating it with an iron grille. This was also designed by Hillebrand. The organ loft on the left side incorporates parts of the old organ.
Below the church is a crypt now used as a baptistery. There’s no bell tower. A single bell hangs on the outside wall.
The church almost opens onto the Stadtgarten. Sometimes masses are even held in the park echoing Ronchamp’s practice. Many of the church’s furnishings are historically significant. A 16th and 17th-century crucifixion group from the old church was saved. Twelve apostle figures from the old high altar are on the organ loft. A 15th-century Pietà painstakingly reassembled from 407 fragments stands beneath the loft. A Schreinfels triptych from the early 16th century hangs on the west wall. A Renaissance pulpit circa 1600-1630 with Baroque reliefs around 1730 was acquired privately. A carved Madonna from Franconia around 1520 was donated by a parishioner. The bronze baptismal font in the crypt dates to 1642.
New works were commissioned too. A gem-encrusted cross in the apse is the work of Benedictine nun Lioba Munz from Fulda. She worked with five assistants for five months in cooperation with Elisabeth Treskow from the Cologne art schools. The ciborium in the sacristy with scenes from the Old and New Testaments is by Hillebrand. The main entrance the iron Paradise Gate is by Toni Zenz. He also created the choir screen wall sconces apostle crosses and candlesticks. The weathervane depicting Saint Alban is also Hillebrand’s design.
The 26-register pipe organ with pedals and two manuals is by Franz Breil of Dorsten. The bell cast in 1958 by Petit & Gebr Edelbrock of Gescher weighs about 120 kg. Its inscription reads Et verbum caro factum est et habitavit in nobis. It was donated by the Cologne Gewerbebank. Neu St Alban isn’t just a church it’s a living history lesson.