Perhaps Padriciano seems like just another village on the Karst Plateau. But Padriciano holds stories of refugees and resilience. This area offers a glimpse into a poignant chapter of Trieste’s history.
Padriciano is a quarter of the municipality of Trieste. It sits 359 meters above sea level on the Karst Plateau. Before we delve into the refugee camp’s history let’s explore Padriciano’s origins.
Until the 17th century, Benedictine nuns of Trieste owned this land. The name Padriciano may come from Tomaso Padrichiar. He acquired the property in 1619. Before that, it was called Bovolenta. Another theory suggests the name derives from the Slovene “podgrič”. This translates to “sottomonte” or “under the mountain.” A family named Grgič has lived here since 1584. This is considered the founding year of the village.
The church in Padriciano was built in 1898. The inhabitants built it themselves. They formed a consortium that still exists today as the Consorzio boschivo. The church is dedicated to Saints Cyril and Methodius. A monument on the main facade remembers World War II victims. Many families suffered during the Fascist era and Nazi occupation. They faced repression, deportation, and executions. This led to almost unanimous support for the liberation struggle and the partisan movement.
Before its annexation to Italy in 1918-1920, Padriciano was mainly Slovene. In 1911, 97.3% of the population spoke Slovene. The population was 254 in 1900.
Padriciano is known for its former refugee camp. It operated for a long time after the Istrian exodus. Since 2004, it has housed the Museo di Carattere Nazionale C.R.P. This translates to Refugee Collection Center National Museum. Another camp was set up nearby. It sheltered people fleeing communist countries in Eastern Europe. Since 1981, Padriciano has been home to the AREA Science Park. It is Trieste’s main scientific campus and Italy’s largest science and technology park.
In 1954, Trieste faced a major refugee crisis. Thousands of Italians fled Fiume, Istria, and Dalmatia. This happened after the territory became part of Yugoslavia. Trieste and its Refugee Gathering Centers had experience with refugees long before. An estimated 350,000 refugees arrived from former Italian territories. The camps in Trieste were often the last stop. Families stayed there before embarking on ships to new lives. Some settled in Trieste permanently.
Nine official camps existed in Trieste. Researching them is difficult. Their history seems uncomfortable and confined to the past. The old refugee camp in Padriciano operated from 1954 to the mid-1970s. This Refugee Collection Center primarily housed Istrian refugees. It hosted 5,000 to 7,000 people over the years. It was built in 1945 and used as military barracks. It remains a silent witness to Trieste’s troubled history.
A tall fence surrounds the site along the road connecting Basovizza and Padriciano. Dilapidated buildings and abandoned cars litter the area. A sign on a gate advertises a museum. The museum established in 2004 by Unione degli Istriani, is run by volunteers. It offers a heartbreaking experience. Cold walls tell of displaced people fleeing with little. Panels illustrate historical events. They explain the new border between Italy and Yugoslavia in 1954. Recreated living spaces show the exiles’ difficulties.
At the center, furniture and objects speak of hopes for normality. Photographs show smiles despite broken dreams. The museum also holds items from Nazi and Titoist occupations. Original signposts from Istrian towns were used to gather exiles. Outside, a symbolic graveyard of Karst rocks bears the names of some exiles.
The stone foundations of the sleeping quarters evoke a concentration camp. Unheated wooden shacks with asbestos roofs housed families. Living conditions were precarious. Entire families lived in cramped spaces. This led to uncertainty, unhealthy environments, and isolation.
During Trieste winters, children got sick. Marinella Filippaz froze to death in February 1956 at one year old. The camp became a world apart with its own life and rules. Refugees endured poor conditions for over twenty years. A generation of Triestini were born and raised inside the barracks. By 1961, refugees made up a third of Trieste’s population.
Today, you can visit the grounds through a small gate. A sign points the way to the abandoned area. Here in Padriciano the past whispers. It reminds us of the human cost of conflict and displacement. It also stands as a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.