Curious about a church with a story of plots and Doge processions? That’s San Vito e Modesto. This wasn’t just any church. It played a key role in Venetian history. Today, let’s unravel its tale.
San Vito e Modesto once stood proudly here. It was in the Dorsoduro district. The church faced the rio di San Vio. It ran parallel to the Grand Canal. Its origins trace back to the 10th century. Legend says the Magno family founded it. The church was rebuilt after a fire in 1015. This confirms its early existence.
San Vito e Modesto gained importance in 1310. Baiamonte Tiepolo plotted to overthrow the government. The plot was discovered on St. Vito’s day. Tiepolo and others planned to replace Doge Gradenigo. They wanted a more popular government. The Doge was to visit the church in an annual procession. This was mandated by the Senate. It commemorated the plot’s failure. The Doge’s visit became a grand affair. To ease access for the Doge, the campo was enlarged. Buildings between the church and canal were demolished.
The Tiepolo family’s house was razed. It stood in Sant’ Agostin. Marble jambs from the demolished palace were donated to San Vito Church. This gift thanked the saint for averting danger. These jambs became part of the church’s structure.
Jacopo de’ Barbari’s 1500 map shows a Romanesque building. San Vito e Modesto had three naves. A square bell tower stood beside it. Its design resembled San Nicolò dei Mendicoli. It also looked like the nearby Sant’Agnese church. The church’s right side ran along two rios. The left side was part of a housing complex. This was unusual for Venetian churches. Its orientation was also peculiar. It ran transversely to the San Vio block.
Inside, paintings by famous artists adorned the walls. Matteo Ingoli, Alvise dal Friso, and others contributed. Rosalba Carriera, a painter who lived nearby, was buried here. Also Contessa Tagliapietra was buried in the church.
San Vito e Modesto’s story took a turn in 1808. The church closed. In 1813, it was demolished. A small chapel replaced it. The chapel used some original elements. These included pink marble columns. It also used the marble jambs from Tiepolo’s house.
Today, that chapel is a private residence. It overlooks the Grand Canal. A renowned architect owns it. He transformed it over 40 years. The residence has three bedrooms and two bathrooms. Large windows offer canal views. A living room occupies the former apse. A lounge sits in the chapel’s heart. Access is through Campo San Vio. A private courtyard adds to its charm.
So, remember San Vito e Modesto. It was once a vital church. It witnessed plots, processions, and artistic endeavors. Its legacy lives on in a unique Venetian home.