Can you hear the gentle lapping of waves against the shore? This, my friends, is Ap Chau Hoi, also known as Duck Island Bay. It cradles the tiny island of Ap Chau, a place where time seems to have slowed its relentless march. Ap Chau, a mere 0.04 square kilometers, holds a history far larger than its diminutive size. Ap Chau Hoi and its namesake island sit nestled within Crooked Harbour in the northeastern New Territories of Hong Kong.
Ap Chau, meaning “duck island,” earned its name from its unique shape. The island’s rocky landmass, sculpted by the tireless work of sea and rain, resembles a resting duck. Its curved body and a distinct head, separated by erosion, give the island its charming moniker. Ap Chau was once known as Robinson Island, after Hercules Robinson, Hong Kong’s 5th governor. He served from 1859 to 1865. But the name Ap Chau, rooted in the island’s physical form, has endured.
Originally uninhabited, Ap Chau started attracting Tanka fishermen in the 1920s. These fishermen, an ethnic minority, used the island as a place to anchor their boats, dry their nets, and make repairs. By the 1940s, some fishermen began to settle permanently, establishing informal settlements. A turning point in Ap Chau’s history came in 1952 with the arrival of the True Jesus Church. Forced to relocate from mainland China, they built a wooden church on the island. This drew converted fishermen from their boats to live on Ap Chau and gather for prayer. The church was later rebuilt in concrete in 1965. Life on Ap Chau improved in 1960. Financial aid from the United States CARE program and the British government enabled the installation of a freshwater supply. This water, piped underground from a reservoir in So Lo Pun, was a collaborative effort, built by Ap Chau locals with assistance from the British Military.
In 1961, the Ap Chau Fishermen Village was officially established. This, too, was supported by the CARE program and the British Government. Ap Chau even had its own primary school, the FMO Ap Chau Primary School, which opened in 1958. At its peak, Ap Chau was home to over 700 people. However, many migrated to cities in the United Kingdom during the 1960s and 1970s. Today, only a handful of permanent residents remain. But the spirit of this tiny island persists. The church is still active. The Ap Chau Story Room, opened in 2018 in the former primary school, welcomes visitors on Sundays and public holidays. Here, you can delve deeper into the island’s rich history. Ap Chau’s most striking feature is the Duck’s Eye Sea Arch, located on the northern end. This natural arch, formed by seawater erosion, stands 2 meters tall and 10 meters wide. It’s the only sea arch in Hong Kong safe to walk through, offering a unique and memorable experience. As you leave Ap Chau Hoi, remember the story of this resilient island. It’s a testament to the enduring human spirit. It reminds us that even the smallest places can hold the largest stories.