Nestled within the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, the Kodaira bathhouse, known as the KODAKARA-YU, beckons with tales of bygone eras. The KODAKARA-YU stands as a proud example of “Tokyo-style” bathhouses. It originally operated in the Senju Motomachi district from 1929 until 1988. Its architecture, reminiscent of a shrine, evokes a sense of nostalgia. This distinctive style became widespread in Tokyo after the Great Kanto Earthquake.
Now relocated to the museum, the KODAKARA-YU offers a glimpse into the social heart of Tokyo. Notice the intricate details, like the dressing rooms and courtyard outside the bath chambers. Admire the captivating “Penki-e” paintings of Mount Fuji adorning the walls, vividly showcasing the artistic traditions of these public spaces. These paintings were periodically retouched during the bathhouse’s operation due to moisture damage. The current artwork, however, is a 1993 recreation by artist Nakajima Mori, adding another layer to the KODAKARA-YU’s story.
Penki-e paintings were once a hallmark of bathhouses, but they’ve become a rarity with the changing times. Modern bathhouses favor mosaic tiles or simpler painted designs. In their heyday, dozens of Penki-e artists thrived, but only a few remain today. The KODAKARA-YU’s paintings transport you to serene landscapes of mountains and seas, enhancing the sense of relaxation and escape. These landscapes, rendered in shades of blue, evoke a sense of depth and distance, further accentuated by the bathhouse’s high ceilings. This clever use of perspective amplifies the open and airy atmosphere, adding to the overall sense of well-being.
KODAKARA-YU also illustrates the evolving role of bathhouses in Tokyo. While their numbers have dwindled over the years, they still hold a special place in the community. They continue to offer spaces for human connection and a welcome respite from daily life. This exhibition further delves into the history of bathhouses in Tokyo, highlighting their social impact and the changes they’ve undergone. From their Edo-era origins to the present day, the story of KODAKARA-YU and other bathhouses like it weaves a tapestry of tradition, resilience, and community spirit.