“Shibuya 3-chome East,” a name that might not immediately conjure images of tranquility. But prepare to be surprised. Here in Tsuchihashi 3-chome, history and culture thrive. This area offers a unique contrast to the bustling Shibuya we often imagine.
Tsuchihashi 3-chome sits within walking distance of Shibuya Station. Yet it feels worlds away. You will find quiet residential streets here. Historic shrines also dot the landscape. Tsuchihashi 3-chome retains the charm of old Shibuya. Educational institutions add to its distinctive character. Kokugakuin University and Jissen Women’s University are nearby. The Shibuya Shirane Local Museum also calls this area home.
Let’s talk about architecture. The “Tower of Babel” stands as a striking example. Designed in 1985 by Yuzo Nagata, it served as the Tokyo branch office for Miki Shoji. The company is famous for its Miki Prune. Nagata later went independent. His unique design suggests he was not suited to working for an organization. In 2022, Miki Shoji moved to Shibuya Hikarie. Today, the building houses tenant spaces and pop-up shops. Upcycled furniture brands are among its occupants. Its magnificent unevenness makes you want to climb it.
Konno Hachimangu Shrine is another highlight. This shrine served as the guardian deity of the Shibuya Station area. During the Kamakura period, the Shibuya clan built a castle here. That’s Kawasaki Motoie leading his clan to victory. The shrine was founded in 1092. It honored Hachiman. Hachiman was worshipped as the god of military fortune. The current shrine building stands on the site of Shibuya Castle’s main citadel.
Adjacent to Konno Hachiman Shrine lies Toyosaka Inari Shrine. It combines Tanaka Inari Shrine and Toyosawa Inari Shrine. The rows of torii gates create a photogenic spot.
Continuing our exploration of Tsuchihashi 3-chome, we encounter Shibuya’s precious legacies. Uotama is a long-established fish shop. It has operated beside the large torii gate since the early Taisho period. Its “signboard architecture” evokes Showa-era nostalgia.
On Hachiman-dori, you will see geometric Metabolist architecture. Tokiwamatsu Royal Heights was built in 1978. It houses apartments and offices on the middle and upper floors. Shopping Plaza Caminito occupies the lower floors. “Caminito” means “lane” in Spanish. The tenant spaces create an interesting backstreet feel.
The former Shibuya City Shibuya Library once stood as a pilgrimage site. It was the model for the library in the anime film “The Boy and the Beast”. Sadly, it was demolished in 2022.
The name “Tokiwamatsu” has interesting origins. It comes from a magnificent pine tree. The tree was over 400 years old. Legend says Minamoto no Yoshitomo’s wife, Tokiwa, planted it.
For a deeper dive into history, visit Shibuya Hikawa Shrine. It is said to be the oldest shrine in Shibuya Ward. Emperor Keiko’s son Yamato Takeru welcomed Susanoo to this area. The shrine enshrines Susanoo, Kushinadahime, Oonamuchinokami, and Amaterasu-sume-okami. Adjacent to the shrine, you can find the remains of a sumo ring. “Konno Sumo” was held here. It was one of the three major sumo tournaments in the suburbs of Edo.
Close by stands the Hanawa Hokiichi Historical Museum. Hanawa Hokiichi was a blind scholar of Japanese literature. Shibusawa Eiichi founded the Onkogakkai to preserve Hokiichi’s achievements. Helen Keller visited the museum and showed respect for Hokiichi’s work.
As you walk around Tsuchihashi 3-chome, notice the hilly terrain. This topography played a crucial role in building Shibuya Castle. Today, the area is home to many educational and cultural assets. Its high ground makes it less susceptible to flooding. Tsuchihashi 3-chome offers a panoramic view of the Shibuya cityscape.