Gazing upon Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska, can you sense the whispers of centuries past? This nature reserve, a verdant tapestry of forests and meadows, ponds and peat bogs, holds more than just natural beauty. It cradles the remnants of history, a story waiting to be unveiled. Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska sits on the slopes and foothills of the Warsaw escarpment. It’s nestled within the western part of the Wilanów Cultural Park. This 20-hectare sanctuary encompasses the grounds of a historic palace and park complex. This area was once known as Rozkosz, meaning “delight”. It’s fitting, considering the area’s rich history.
In the late 17th century, King Jan III Sobieski acquired this land. He incorporated it into the vast Wilanów estate. Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska held a significant compositional role for the king. It formed the western boundary of the baroque Wilanów axis. This royal axis stretched from the Vistula River, through the Zawady farm, Wilanów Palace, and the Royal Canal, finally reaching the escarpment. Years later, in 1775, August Czartoryski, then owner of Wilanów, designated this land for a separate residence. Colonel Józef Maisonneuve, a royal chamberlain, settled here. This marked the beginning of the palace and park complex at Rozkosz. The residence changed appearance many times over the years, as did its owners. One notable owner was Julian Ursyn Niemcewicz, who gave his name to both the estate and the Warsaw district of Ursynów. In 1956, the land was transferred to the Warsaw University of Life Sciences (SGGW).
Despite the transformations of the 18th-century garden design, elements of its composition survive to this day. The current neo-renaissance palace building stands on the site of the baroque one. It was built at the initiative of Elżbieta Krasińska and Zygmunt Krasiński, who purchased the estate in 1850. Since 1965, the entire Ursynów/Rozkosz Palace Complex has been listed in the register of monuments. The area on the slope of the escarpment and the lower park have been part of the Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska since 1996. Preserved from the 18th-century design are a grotto, a water system with a pond and canals, and the old “walking promenade.” This promenade is a path leading through the trees of the escarpment. Also remaining are 19th-century terraced stairs and the remnants of a fountain at the foot of the escarpment.
Today, the uncontrolled growth of vegetation makes it difficult to discern the historical sightlines to the royal residence in Wilanów. Part of the historical area can be visited in organized groups with a guide. The rest of Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska is left to nature. More than half of the reserve is covered by overgrown peat bogs and meadows. Approximately 40% is comprised of forests and woodlands, with a dominance of oak-hornbeam forest. Rezerwat Skarpa Ursynowska is a testament to the passage of time, a place where nature has reclaimed its hold while whispers of the past still linger. As you leave, carry with you the echoes of royalty, the legacy of notable figures, and the quiet resilience of nature within this remarkable reserve.