Curious about a church in Venice that might hold secrets of the Freemasons? La Maddalena is not your typical Venetian church. It stands in the Cannaregio district. People often refer to it simply as La Maddalena.
The story of La Maddalena starts much earlier than its current form. A religious building stood here as early as 1222. The Balbo family, Venetian patricians, owned it then. In the mid-14th century, Venice decided to celebrate Mary Magdalene’s feast with a public holiday. This led to the church’s expansion. They even added a watchtower that became a bell tower.
However, the La Maddalena you see today is mostly from 1780. Tommaso Temanza rebuilt it. He designed it with a circular plan, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. The bell tower, however, was unfortunately demolished in 1888.
Look closely at the portal. Some believe the symbols above the door are Masonic. This links back to the Balbo family and possible ties to the Knights Templar. Inside, the church has a hexagonal plan. You will see four side chapels and a presbytery. Outside the apse, find a 15th-century bas-relief of the Madonna with Child.
La Maddalena’s design is quite unique for Venice. Its circular form sets it apart. Tommaso Temanza was known as a theorist and historian. This church is one of his few completed buildings. This makes La Maddalena the last religious building built under the independent Venetian Republic. Venice has only two other round churches: La Salute and San Simeon Piccolo.
French rule brought changes. In 1810, La Maddalena lost its status as a parish church. It closed in 1820. Later, it reopened as an oratory. Today, the municipality of San Marcuola owns the church.
Inside, twelve ionic pillars support the dome. They symbolize the apostles. In the lunette of the portal, there’s an allegorical representation of the Solomon Islands and divine wisdom. Near the entrance, see Giandomenico Tiepolo’s painting of “The Last Supper”.
The connection to Freemasonry makes La Maddalena particularly intriguing. The “eye within the triangle” symbol above the doorway is a key point of interest. The inscription “Sapienta aedificavit sibi domun” translates to “Wisdom built this House Herself”. Some interpret this as denying God’s role.
Originally, Temanza’s La Maddalena had only one altar. This was “for a single Supreme Being,” in line with Masonic beliefs. Unusually for Venetian churches, there were no altars to the Virgin or other saints. Later, two altars were added. This was to perhaps downplay the Masonic influence. Even Temanza’s tombstone inside features a compass, ruler, and set-square. These are tools of his profession. They are also Masonic symbols.
In the 18th century, Freemasonry was popular in Venice. Casanova was even initiated into a lodge. Though suppressed at times, Freemasonry has had a long and fascinating history in Venice.
La Maddalena may not always be open. But when you get the chance to visit, it offers a unique experience. It blends neoclassical architecture and mysterious symbolism. Keep an eye out for occasional exhibitions, such as those during the Venice Biennale. As you leave, consider that you have visited a place where faith, architecture, and perhaps a bit of mystery intertwine.