“Seeking blessings for your little one?” I hear a Bhutanese mother ask her friend as they approach Changangkha Lhakhang. This compact temple complex before us is one of Thimphu’s oldest. Founded in the 13th or 14th century, Changangkha Lhakhang predates Bhutan’s unification.
Parents frequently bring their children here. They seek blessings from Genyen Domtsangpa. He is the protective deity of children born in Thimphu.
Changangkha Lhakhang was founded by Nyima. He was the son of Phajo Drugom Zhigpo. Phajo introduced the Drukpa Kagyu tradition to Bhutan. He is revered as an emanation of Avalokiteśvara.
The main object of reverence is a large bronze statue. It depicts Avalokiteśvara with eleven heads and many arms. This statue was Phajo’s personal deity. Some say it arose miraculously. Others believe a Newa artisan skillfully crafted it.
Changangkha Lhakhang follows the natural ridge towards Thimphu. At the ridge’s end are two buildings. The main temple is to the east. Facing it to the west is the black Gönkhang. Other buildings house monks and caretakers. They form a quadrangle. A wall encircles the complex with a path for circumambulation. Small niches contain prayer wheels. Slate carvings depict Buddhas and Kagyu lamas. They adorn the main temple’s sides.
The main temple’s interior is divided into two sections. The east side holds sacred images and scriptures. It is usually closed to the public. However, the main image is visible from the other section. Lamas sit here during rituals and prayers. Proper dress and behavior are required when visiting.
Across the courtyard from the main temple is the Gönkhang. It is the protector temple. It houses Genyen Domtsangpa. He is the protector of children born in Thimphu. The Gönkhang also holds images of other protective deities. The wall paintings are the oldest known murals in Bhutan. Only Bhutanese men may enter this temple.
Behind the main temple, paths descend into the valley. Terraces with small stupas dot the landscape. These terraces offer panoramic views of Thimphu.
A Tshechu is held in the courtyard. Masked dances occur on the ninth Bhutanese lunar month’s twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth days. Annually, gomchens recite the Kangyur. It is an ancient manuscript of over 100 volumes written in gold ink. They come from their meditation center in the Phobjikha valley.
Families with newborns visit Changangkha Lhakhang. They receive names and blessings for their babies. As you stand here, take in the vista over the Thimphu Valley. Remember the deep faith and traditions embodied by this ancient temple. It continues to be a vital spiritual hub.