Have you ever imagined a book so massive that it would take you years to read it? Well, at Kuthodaw Pagoda in Mandalay, you can actually see such a book. Kuthodaw Pagoda is a Buddhist stupa, also known as “Royal Merit Pagoda”. It was built by King Mindon to preserve the entire text of the Tipitaka, the Theravada Buddhist scriptures, by carving them onto huge marble slabs.
The story behind the pagoda is one of faith and determination. King Mindon was worried that the teachings of Buddha could be lost. So he decided to create a lasting monument. Kuthodaw literally means “the glory of good deeds”. The pagoda’s central stupa is 188 feet high. It was modelled on a famous pagoda in Bagan.
The most impressive part of Kuthodaw Pagoda is its collection of 729 shrines. Each one houses a single marble slab. The slabs, carved with Burmese script, are arranged in three enclosures. If you were to read all the text, it would take you over six months non-stop. Imagine all the stories and wisdom that are contained within those whitewashed shrines. They make up the “world’s largest book”.
After the British took over Mandalay in 1885, the pagoda was used as a military base. The Burmese people were not allowed to visit their religious sites. When they were finally allowed to return, they found that the pagoda had been emptied. They found the hti lying on the ground, stripped of all its ornaments. Even today, it is still possible to imagine the anger and despair that must have filled their hearts.
Visitors to Kuthodaw Pagoda can marvel at the beauty of the inscriptions. The original lettering was covered in gold leaf. After the invasion, the lettering was marked with black ink. Today, many scholars see these black marks as symbols of resilience. The pagoda stands tall, representing a profound dedication to preserving the teachings of Buddha. Kuthodaw Pagoda is a must-see for anyone visiting Mandalay. It is a place where you can feel the weight of history and come face to face with the enduring power of faith.