Ensen

Ensen. A name whispered on the wind, carried on the currents of the Rhine. Did you know the name likely means “flowing water”? It’s a fitting moniker for this Cologne district, nestled along the river’s edge. Ensen stands higher than its neighbor, Westhoven. This elevation offered refuge from the Rhine’s frequent floods, giving rise to another theory: Ensen, from “island,” a safe haven amidst the rising waters. The first whispers of Ensen’s existence appear in a miracle book of Saint Anno II. Imagine, a time before the bustling city, when Ensen was a quiet village of just 160 souls in the late 18th century. They fished the Rhine, tilled the land, and cultivated vineyards. Centuries passed, and the village grew, blurring the lines between Ensen and Westhoven. Today, these two districts are practically intertwined. But remnants of old Ensen still remain. Look for the older houses along Kölner Straße and near the Alexianer Krankenhaus. This hospital, built between 1905 and 1908, is a striking example of “Bergisch Baroque” architecture, echoing the grand castles of the 17th and 18th centuries in the Bergisches Land. The heart of Ensen beats within the walls of St. Laurentius, a neo-Gothic church built between 1894 and 1896. Its square tower, adorned with corner turrets and an octagonal helm, stands as a testament to Ensen’s enduring spirit. Inside, 14 stark black and white woodcuts by Jochem Pechau depict Christ’s suffering, a modern interpretation of the Stations of the Cross. Ensen, a place of flowing water, a haven from floods, a village transformed. Its history whispers through the streets, carried on the same Rhine that shaped its destiny.