西円寺

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Lost in the vibrant tapestry of Shinjuku stands Sainen-ji a temple steeped in history. This isn’t just any temple. It whispers tales of legendary samurai and unwavering loyalty.

Sainen-ji is a Jodo-shu Buddhist temple. It holds a special place in Tokyo’s rich history. It’s far more than just a place of worship. It’s a living testament to the life of Hattori Hanzō a renowned samurai of the Sengoku period. He served the powerful Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Hanzō didn’t just fight battles. He built Sainen-ji. Or rather its predecessor An’yoin. This was in 1594 shortly after the Tokugawa clan secured Edo. Hanzō founded An’yoin to commemorate Matsudaira Nobuyasu. Nobuyasu was Tokugawa Ieyasu’s eldest son. He died tragically young. Hanzō served as his guardian. He built a memorial tower at An’yoin. He dedicated his life to praying for Nobuyasu’s soul. After Hanzō’s death in 1597 he received the posthumous name Senshoinden An’yo Saien Daizenjomon. He’s buried at the very hermitage he built.

An’yoin wasn’t destined to stay in its original location. The expansion of Edo Castle forced its relocation. Around 1634 it was moved to its current location in Shinjuku. It was rebuilt as the Sainen-ji we know today. The current name Sainen-ji comes from Hanzō’s posthumous name.

Within Sainen-ji’s grounds lie treasures. The Tokugawa Nobuyasu Memorial Tower stands tall. It’s a designated historic site by Shinjuku Ward. This large Gorinto stone tower features the three-leaf hollyhock crest. It bears an inscription referencing Seiryu-ji Temple. Then there’s Hattori Hanzō’s grave. Also a designated historic site. A large stone pagoda marks his resting place. It bears his posthumous name and the date 1606.

Sainen-ji also proudly displays Hattori Hanzō’s spear. It’s a registered tangible cultural property. This spear was a gift from Ieyasu at Hamamatsu Castle. Hanzō earned the nickname “Spear Hanzō” due to his exceptional spear skills. The spear is now shorter than its original length of about 2.6 meters.

Sainen-ji is more than just stones and history. It breathes with the spirit of loyalty dedication and remembrance. It’s a place where the echoes of a legendary samurai’s life resonate. It’s a place to pause reflect and absorb the weight of history. A place to appreciate the quiet strength of Sainen-ji.

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