San Lazzaro

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A former leper colony. That’s what this island was. Now look at San Lazzaro degli Armeni. A vibrant hub of Armenian culture.

San Lazzaro degli Armeni is more than just an island. It’s a testament to resilience. It’s a story of survival against the odds. Originally a quarantine station for those with leprosy it was abandoned in the 16th century. In 1717 the Venetian Senate gifted it to Armenian monks fleeing persecution.

Imagine the scene. Twelve monks led by Mkhitar Sebastatsi arriving on this desolate island. Their task was monumental. They restored the old church. They reclaimed land. They built a monastery. They created a haven of learning and scholarship.

Mkhitar’s vision was extraordinary. He transformed San Lazzaro into a center of Armenian studies. The monks established a printing press. This was revolutionary. They published Armenian historical philological and literary works. The island became renowned for its scholarship and accuracy. The beauty of the editions is still celebrated today. Though the presses shut down in 1991 an 18th century one is still there.

San Lazzaro boasts an incredible library. It houses around 150000 books and more than 4000 Armenian manuscripts some almost 1300 years old. The collection includes rare and unique treasures. A Koran created after Mohammed’s death. An Indian papyrus from the 13th century. An Egyptian sarcophagus and mummy from the 15th century BC. The monks have amassed this wealth over centuries through purchases and gifts. The most valuable items are on display. The monks are justifiably proud.

Lord Byron’s presence adds another layer to San Lazzaro’s story. He visited twice a week for six months. He studied Armenian. He admired the monks’ academic lifestyle. The monastery now has a permanent exhibition dedicated to Byron. His study remains largely untouched.

Today San Lazzaro welcomes scholars and students. The residents include monks seminarians and Armenian students studying Italian language and culture. The scent of roasting meat wafts tantalisingly through the cloisters. You might even be invited to Sunday lunch. The island still thrives. A testament to faith hard work and perseverance. A hidden gem in the Venetian Lagoon.

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