Hidden within Tokyo’s Nerima ward, the Nerima Hakusan Jinja Shrine whispers tales of resilience and reverence. This unassuming shrine, nestled amidst residential streets, holds a secret: a giant kaya tree, a designated natural monument of Japan. This ancient tree, estimated to be over 900 years old, stands as a testament to the shrine’s enduring presence. Imagine warriors, pausing on their journeys, offering prayers for safe passage beneath its sprawling branches.
Nerima Hakusan Jinja Shrine, originally a village shrine, served the lower Nerima village. Its formal name is Hakusan Jinja, but it’s often referred to as Nerima Hakusan Jinja to distinguish it from others. The shrine’s deity is Izanami no Mikoto. The annual Grand Festival takes place on the second Sunday of October.
The shrine’s history is deeply intertwined with the kaya tree. Legend says Minamoto no Yoshiie, while praying for victory in battle, offered a kaya seedling to the shrine. This seedling, it is believed, grew into the magnificent tree we see today. Originally, two large kaya trees graced the shrine grounds, one rooted in the upper stone steps and the other below. Sadly, a typhoon in 2015 claimed the upper tree, leaving its companion to stand alone.
Nerima Hakusan Jinja has witnessed the ebb and flow of time. A fire in 1868 destroyed the main hall, only to be rebuilt the same year. The shrine, once ungraded, was elevated to village shrine status in 1928. As the village of Shimonerima transformed into Nerima town in 1929, and then became part of Nerima Ward in 1932, Nerima Hakusan Jinja remained a steadfast spiritual anchor.
The shrine’s main hall, a wooden structure built in 2001, exudes a sense of quiet strength. Stone lanterns and smaller shrines dot the grounds. The lower kaya tree, a survivor of storms and decay, continues to draw visitors seeking its power. Its presence inspired the 2016 visit of Nogizaka46, who prayed for growth and success beneath its branches. Even the popular anime, InuYasha, features a sacred tree that some believe is modeled after this very kaya. Although the upper kaya tree is gone, the remaining tree, a powerhouse of life, remains a captivating symbol of the shrine’s enduring spirit. Nerima Hakusan Jinja continues to be a place of connection to the past and a testament to the power of nature and belief.