Remember the Hakka people. They transformed Kuk Po into a market town. Now, look around. This is Kuk Po, a village with a 300-year history. Its decaying mansions and reed fields offer a break from Hong Kong’s busy pace.
Kuk Po is in the northeastern New Territories. It sits south of the Starling Inlet, opposite Sha Tau Kok town. Once, seven clans lived here. They were the Sung, Lee, Ho, Tsang, Cheng, Ng and Yeung families.
For over three centuries, Kuk Po was home to these clans. Smaller villages make up Kuk Po. They include Hoi Ha, Tien Sim and Lau Vui. Sin Vuk Ha, Ngi Du, Sam Du, Si Du and Ng Du are also part of it. Some villages like Lau Vui are mixed clan villages. Others belong to just one clan. Most Kuk Po people farmed. Living by the inlet meant they fished and gathered shellfish too.
The Cheung clan may have lived here first. They now reside in Fung Hang. They owned much of Kuk Po’s land. The Cheung may have been here before 1662. That year, the Qing dynasty’s Kangxi Emperor ordered coastal evacuations. People had to move inland. It wasn’t until 1669 that they could return. The Emperor offered aid to help them resettle. This likely brought new people to Kuk Po.
In 1911, Kuk Po Lo Wai had 247 people. 140 were male. Kuk Po San Wai had 126 people. 56 were male. Kuk Po even had its own rural school. It opened in 1928. Sung Miau On became the headmaster. He had studied at Guangzhou Military Academy School. He wasn’t from Kuk Po originally. But he felt connected to the local people. They were of the same clan. The school stayed open until the early 1990s.
By then, many Kuk Po residents had moved away. They still kept ties to the village. Some visited often. Others came for lunar festivals to honor ancestors.
Kuk Po Lo Wai is the oldest village. It was a Hakka walled village. Today, Kuk Po is mostly deserted. But hikers pass through from Plover Cove Country Park. A stall near the school opens on Sundays. Local Kuk Po people run it for the travelers.
Reaching Kuk Po isn’t easy. You need a permit to pass through the Shek Chung O border crossing. This is because Sha Tau Kok is in a restricted area. You also need a ferry across the Starling Inlet to Kuk Po Hoi Ha pier. Some residents use the trackway from Luk Keng. But the boat is more common. Trekkers can reach it through the Country Park.
Kuk Po people speak Hakka. Many educated here since the 1970s speak both Hakka and Cantonese. The Kai Choi School and Hip Tin Temple are historic sites. The Yeung Ancestral Hall and Li Ancestral Hall in Kuk Po Lo Wai are too. All are listed as Grade III historic buildings.
A path leads from Kuk Po’s school towards Fung Hang. It takes you to Kai Kuk Shue Ha and Ham Hang Mei. From there, you can reach Luk Keng. Public transport is available there. The walk takes about 45 minutes.
The Hong Kong government hopes eco-tours can help nature. It also hopes to generate cash for the city. Kuk Po is among the rural towns listed in a tourism plan. Kuk Po is a reminder of Hong Kong’s past. It shows a different side of this dynamic region. It is a place to relax and be at ease. This beautiful environment should be treasured. Let’s help preserve Kuk Po’s unique story.