Ryūsen-ji. A place of whispers and echoes, where the past clings to the present like morning mist. Ryūsen-ji is also known as the Meguro Fudō. This name, “Black-eyed Fudō,” comes from a unique statue within its walls. Imagine standing here, centuries ago, in the bustling heart of Edo. Ryūsen-ji was already a landmark, a place of pilgrimage and even, surprisingly, a lottery. People flocked to Ryūsen-ji, seeking not just spiritual solace but also the healing waters of its springs and waterfall. The Edo meisho zue, a popular guidebook of the time, depicted Ryūsen-ji as a must-see attraction.
Ryūsen-ji’s history stretches back even further, to the early Heian period. Legend claims it was founded in 808 AD by the monk Ennin. He was traveling from Shimotsuke province to Mount Hiei and stopped to enshrine a statue of Fudō-myōō. The temple’s connection to this deity has remained unbroken for centuries, making it the 18th stop on the Kantō Sanjūroku Fudō pilgrimage route. This route encompasses 36 temples dedicated to Fudō-myōō across the Kantō region. Ryūsen-ji wasn’t always a peaceful sanctuary. In 1615, fire ravaged its main hall. The temple was later restored and expanded thanks to the patronage of Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu. This restoration further solidified its place in the cultural landscape of Edo.
Beyond its religious significance, Ryūsen-ji holds a unique place in popular culture. It is the final resting place of the lovers Hirai Gonpachi and Komurasaki. Their tragic romance has been immortalized in countless kabuki plays and even in A.B. Mitford’s “Tales of Old Japan.” More recently, tragedy struck again. In 1978, another fire swept through Ryūsen-ji, destroying much of its historic architecture. What you see today is largely a modern reconstruction. However, one Edo-era structure miraculously survived the flames: the Seishi-dō chapel, a designated Tangible Cultural Property of Meguro Ward. Near this chapel, you’ll find memorials to composer Nagayo Motoori and political philosopher Ikki Kita. Kita’s grave is also here. Less well known, perhaps, is the grave of Aoki Konyō. This Confucian scholar, who lived from 1698 to 1769, is credited with popularizing the cultivation of sweet potatoes in Japan. His simple tombstone, erected during his lifetime, stands as a quiet testament to a man who shaped the nation’s agriculture. As you leave Ryūsen-ji, take a moment to reflect on the layers of history, romance, and even tragedy that have shaped this remarkable place. From ancient pilgrims to star-crossed lovers, the echoes of their stories continue to resonate within these walls.