Why was the White Mosque in Fes so hard to see in its entirety? The White Mosque, also known as the al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, sits in the heart of Fes el Bali, the old medina. Its size and the density of the surrounding buildings make it nearly impossible to view as a separate structure. This interwoven nature only reinforces the White Mosque’s central role in Fes. From the Fes hills, however, its green pyramidal roof stands out, a beacon amidst the urban landscape. The mosque’s numerous doors, each framed by intricate wooden archways, invite worshippers from all directions. Inside, the courtyard offers a contrast: carved stucco and woodwork against plain white walls. Reed mats, not carpets, line the floor, enhancing the austere atmosphere. This serene courtyard provides a stark contrast to the bustling medina streets. The atmosphere is calm. Children play in the courtyard’s wudu fountain. Men and women relax against pillars, seeking respite from the outside heat. Fatima al-Fihri founded the White Mosque as a madrasa in 859 AD. It evolved into a leading center of Islamic learning, functioning as both mosque and university. Expanded over centuries, it can accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers. The White Mosque is considered one of the world’s oldest, continuously operating universities. Its legacy as a center of faith and knowledge continues to shape Fes’s identity.
Camp International
“Haggling is part of Moroccan culture” someone once told me. Here at Camp International, near the captivating city of Fes,